¡La Sede No Se Mueve!

I don´t really know where to begin because this has been the most exciting day in my entire 6 months of travel and living overseas. I´m still in La Paz Bolivia, a city that is of course, NOTHING like Chile. The streets are far more chaotic, the people generally poorer and the culture much richer and indigenous. Globalization hasn´t hit Bolivia like it has in Chile, yet everywhere I see evidence of lack of adquete education, health...many people struggle.

La Paz is truly a breathtaking city that is framed by towering mountains covered with snow. The road down into the valley that is central La Paz is truly a breath-taking sight. The city unfolds across the mountains into the valley. I thought Valpo was a city of hills...then I saw La Paz. Paceñas (residents of La Paz) don´t live in the hills, they live on the slopes of enormous mountains. In fact, the elevation gain from the center of the city to Alto (the upper community of La Paz) is a good 500m.

Today, Dana, Lauren, Ali and I hiked that main road along with 2 million Bolivians in the countries´ largest political assembly in the cities´ history. The "cabildo" was essentially a rally held to protest the proposal of moving the nations government to Sucre (the official or constitutional capital of Bolivia). I´m having difficulties describing just how amazing the site was today. 2 million Bolivians marched and bused this 500meter incline in solidarity. Their fight is much deeper than government issues, it is about race, class and identity. Bolivia is 60% indigenous and this population tends to be centered in and around La Paz. Pacenes see the propsed as a grave economic and cultural threat. Sucre and the wealthy community of Santa Cruz tend to be a less indigenous population, these cities are wealthy and needless to say, the people of La Paz feel they don´t adequetly represent the pueblo of Bolivia.

Todays march was full of national pride, flags waved high, people painted their faces and chanted in unison. Yet what was really so incredible was watching men and women of all ages, many of whom were elderly embark in such a grueling climb with such passion. The indigenous women marched in full dress, long colorful skirs, sueters and draping, often beaded shawls. Many carried children in their arms or on their backs. Of course it was not only the traditionally dressed Bolivians who showed up today, but an amazingly spirited crowd. I was also extremely captivated by the colors of today. I loved seeing the woven brightly colored shawls, hats, blankets against the bright yellow, green, and red national flags.

Again, it is hard to explain, but I truly lost my breath when we arrived at the top and I could see the flags waving across the entire mountain while I looked out over the scenic vista of the valley that is La Paz. Perhaps the most incredible moment was when they played the national anthem. I swear the entire 2 million stopped dead in their tracks. Bolivia is noisy, chaotic and colorful, but for three minutes the city stood somber and silent in solidarity.

Bolivia is an exciting place to me because of the rich scenery and landscape, but what really captivates me (and has for a long time actually) is the political climate here. It is monumental that in 2006 Bolivians elected Evo Morales, the first indigenous president of the country, or you could say the first indigenous leader in 500 years. He of course was in solidarity with the rally today, as he too sees La Paz as the face of his country. As much as I would have loved to make the trek north to Peru and see Machu picchu and Cusco, I think this trip to Bolivia is what I needed to satisfy my personal passion for social change in Latin America. Bolivia is where its at!

Here is what I found in the English press...
http://www.cnn.com/2007/WORLD/americas/07/20/bolivia.capital.ap/