Sunday, July 29, 2007
stuff
i have a lot more to write about bolivia and my travels but i am just too lazy to do it at the moment. I thought i'd let everyone know though that a.) i made it safely back to valpo b.) on my pictures page i added pics of the first half of my travles (i will probably me making a few more albums) and c.) if you haven't already scrolled down, until the post Saperstone's are in Chile there are links to four albums that my dad posted! I come home in 10 days!!!!!
Friday, July 20, 2007
¡La Sede No Se Mueve!
I don´t really know where to begin because this has been the most exciting day in my entire 6 months of travel and living overseas. I´m still in La Paz Bolivia, a city that is of course, NOTHING like Chile. The streets are far more chaotic, the people generally poorer and the culture much richer and indigenous. Globalization hasn´t hit Bolivia like it has in Chile, yet everywhere I see evidence of lack of adquete education, health...many people struggle.
La Paz is truly a breathtaking city that is framed by towering mountains covered with snow. The road down into the valley that is central La Paz is truly a breath-taking sight. The city unfolds across the mountains into the valley. I thought Valpo was a city of hills...then I saw La Paz. Paceñas (residents of La Paz) don´t live in the hills, they live on the slopes of enormous mountains. In fact, the elevation gain from the center of the city to Alto (the upper community of La Paz) is a good 500m.
Today, Dana, Lauren, Ali and I hiked that main road along with 2 million Bolivians in the countries´ largest political assembly in the cities´ history. The "cabildo" was essentially a rally held to protest the proposal of moving the nations government to Sucre (the official or constitutional capital of Bolivia). I´m having difficulties describing just how amazing the site was today. 2 million Bolivians marched and bused this 500meter incline in solidarity. Their fight is much deeper than government issues, it is about race, class and identity. Bolivia is 60% indigenous and this population tends to be centered in and around La Paz. Pacenes see the propsed as a grave economic and cultural threat. Sucre and the wealthy community of Santa Cruz tend to be a less indigenous population, these cities are wealthy and needless to say, the people of La Paz feel they don´t adequetly represent the pueblo of Bolivia.
Todays march was full of national pride, flags waved high, people painted their faces and chanted in unison. Yet what was really so incredible was watching men and women of all ages, many of whom were elderly embark in such a grueling climb with such passion. The indigenous women marched in full dress, long colorful skirs, sueters and draping, often beaded shawls. Many carried children in their arms or on their backs. Of course it was not only the traditionally dressed Bolivians who showed up today, but an amazingly spirited crowd. I was also extremely captivated by the colors of today. I loved seeing the woven brightly colored shawls, hats, blankets against the bright yellow, green, and red national flags.
Again, it is hard to explain, but I truly lost my breath when we arrived at the top and I could see the flags waving across the entire mountain while I looked out over the scenic vista of the valley that is La Paz. Perhaps the most incredible moment was when they played the national anthem. I swear the entire 2 million stopped dead in their tracks. Bolivia is noisy, chaotic and colorful, but for three minutes the city stood somber and silent in solidarity.
Bolivia is an exciting place to me because of the rich scenery and landscape, but what really captivates me (and has for a long time actually) is the political climate here. It is monumental that in 2006 Bolivians elected Evo Morales, the first indigenous president of the country, or you could say the first indigenous leader in 500 years. He of course was in solidarity with the rally today, as he too sees La Paz as the face of his country. As much as I would have loved to make the trek north to Peru and see Machu picchu and Cusco, I think this trip to Bolivia is what I needed to satisfy my personal passion for social change in Latin America. Bolivia is where its at!
Here is what I found in the English press...
http://www.cnn.com/2007/WORLD/americas/07/20/bolivia.capital.ap/
La Paz is truly a breathtaking city that is framed by towering mountains covered with snow. The road down into the valley that is central La Paz is truly a breath-taking sight. The city unfolds across the mountains into the valley. I thought Valpo was a city of hills...then I saw La Paz. Paceñas (residents of La Paz) don´t live in the hills, they live on the slopes of enormous mountains. In fact, the elevation gain from the center of the city to Alto (the upper community of La Paz) is a good 500m.
Today, Dana, Lauren, Ali and I hiked that main road along with 2 million Bolivians in the countries´ largest political assembly in the cities´ history. The "cabildo" was essentially a rally held to protest the proposal of moving the nations government to Sucre (the official or constitutional capital of Bolivia). I´m having difficulties describing just how amazing the site was today. 2 million Bolivians marched and bused this 500meter incline in solidarity. Their fight is much deeper than government issues, it is about race, class and identity. Bolivia is 60% indigenous and this population tends to be centered in and around La Paz. Pacenes see the propsed as a grave economic and cultural threat. Sucre and the wealthy community of Santa Cruz tend to be a less indigenous population, these cities are wealthy and needless to say, the people of La Paz feel they don´t adequetly represent the pueblo of Bolivia.
Todays march was full of national pride, flags waved high, people painted their faces and chanted in unison. Yet what was really so incredible was watching men and women of all ages, many of whom were elderly embark in such a grueling climb with such passion. The indigenous women marched in full dress, long colorful skirs, sueters and draping, often beaded shawls. Many carried children in their arms or on their backs. Of course it was not only the traditionally dressed Bolivians who showed up today, but an amazingly spirited crowd. I was also extremely captivated by the colors of today. I loved seeing the woven brightly colored shawls, hats, blankets against the bright yellow, green, and red national flags.
Again, it is hard to explain, but I truly lost my breath when we arrived at the top and I could see the flags waving across the entire mountain while I looked out over the scenic vista of the valley that is La Paz. Perhaps the most incredible moment was when they played the national anthem. I swear the entire 2 million stopped dead in their tracks. Bolivia is noisy, chaotic and colorful, but for three minutes the city stood somber and silent in solidarity.
Bolivia is an exciting place to me because of the rich scenery and landscape, but what really captivates me (and has for a long time actually) is the political climate here. It is monumental that in 2006 Bolivians elected Evo Morales, the first indigenous president of the country, or you could say the first indigenous leader in 500 years. He of course was in solidarity with the rally today, as he too sees La Paz as the face of his country. As much as I would have loved to make the trek north to Peru and see Machu picchu and Cusco, I think this trip to Bolivia is what I needed to satisfy my personal passion for social change in Latin America. Bolivia is where its at!
Here is what I found in the English press...
http://www.cnn.com/2007/WORLD/americas/07/20/bolivia.capital.ap/
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
so so hight
Location: La Paz Bolivia
Altitude: 3600 meters or 11,800 feet
I may be a colorado girl, but I am dizzy. Regardless, today was incredible. We began at sea level in Arica and climbed climbed climbed. I sat next to an incredible nice man on the bus, a former tour guide who gave me detailed description of the landscape change between Arica and the Bolivian border.
We began the day in the dry, barren, lifeless Atacama desert. Nothing grows, lots of minerals but little else. Higher up you see some signs of live and farming. He told me that only two rivers flow at all through northern Chile, the one up near the Bolivian and Peruvian border is called the Lluta. It is kind of salty so the only thing they grow down there is corn.
Then comes the pre cordillera, like the foothills. This zone is marked by yellow and green low lying brush, still dead looking, but gorgeous when they line the canyons. Here you see your first of the four camel species, the gnanaco (also seen in Patagonia).
Higher up, we enter the infamous beauty of the Altiplano, marked by bright bright green rocks, they are covered in lichen, the only source of kindling to start a fire in this Up here is the town of Putre, they grow potatoes, corn, artichokes and animal feed. The altiplano is beautiful, the bus takes you through all the Parque Nacional Lauca, marked by clear lagunas, volcanos, flamingos (I learned there are 5 species globally and 3 live in this park), watering holes with tufts of green moss and algae, and our other three camels: Alpacas, Llamas, and Vicunas.
The border crossing rests at a whopping 4500 meters, or 14,800 ft. I collapased to my kness when I stepped off the bus, kind of scary. The kind man next to me did what any local would do, brought me rubbing alcohol to inhale and a hot cup of coca leaf tea. I felt much better to my surprise.
I'll keep you updated and the journey through bolivia. Right now I am taking it easy in the hostel and getting ready to dive into the madness of La Paz tomorrow.
Altitude: 3600 meters or 11,800 feet
I may be a colorado girl, but I am dizzy. Regardless, today was incredible. We began at sea level in Arica and climbed climbed climbed. I sat next to an incredible nice man on the bus, a former tour guide who gave me detailed description of the landscape change between Arica and the Bolivian border.
We began the day in the dry, barren, lifeless Atacama desert. Nothing grows, lots of minerals but little else. Higher up you see some signs of live and farming. He told me that only two rivers flow at all through northern Chile, the one up near the Bolivian and Peruvian border is called the Lluta. It is kind of salty so the only thing they grow down there is corn.
Then comes the pre cordillera, like the foothills. This zone is marked by yellow and green low lying brush, still dead looking, but gorgeous when they line the canyons. Here you see your first of the four camel species, the gnanaco (also seen in Patagonia).
Higher up, we enter the infamous beauty of the Altiplano, marked by bright bright green rocks, they are covered in lichen, the only source of kindling to start a fire in this Up here is the town of Putre, they grow potatoes, corn, artichokes and animal feed. The altiplano is beautiful, the bus takes you through all the Parque Nacional Lauca, marked by clear lagunas, volcanos, flamingos (I learned there are 5 species globally and 3 live in this park), watering holes with tufts of green moss and algae, and our other three camels: Alpacas, Llamas, and Vicunas.
The border crossing rests at a whopping 4500 meters, or 14,800 ft. I collapased to my kness when I stepped off the bus, kind of scary. The kind man next to me did what any local would do, brought me rubbing alcohol to inhale and a hot cup of coca leaf tea. I felt much better to my surprise.
I'll keep you updated and the journey through bolivia. Right now I am taking it easy in the hostel and getting ready to dive into the madness of La Paz tomorrow.
Monday, July 16, 2007
uncharted territory
As the bus rolls around the corner on Chiles main corrider, ruta 5, the coastal Iquique seemed to appear out of nowhere amongst the looming sand dunes that line Chile´s northern coast. It is really an impressive sight, the city is squeezed between a phenomenal coastline and towers of desert that are actually given the name Cerros Drágons (Dragon Hills). My friend Dana, her 18 year old sister and I arrived yesterday morning to begin what will be a two week travel for me across northern Chile and Bolivia. They will probably travel longer but I cut my time short in order to spend my last week in South America in Valpo and because I´m somewhat short on funds...
Anyway, we came here first to see the Atacama desert, the driest desert in the world and one of Chile´s most amazing treasures. We also came to see the Festival of La Tirana. La Tirana is a tiny town about 1.5 hours outside of Iquique by bus. The town is tiny and quite poor. 800 inhabitants live in box shaped one-homes that line this towns dusty streets. However, every year over 80,000 tourists and religious pilgrims flock for the incredible festival of La Tirana. The festival celebrates the town´s virgin patron saint Carmen with a week long display of dancing, praying and partying.
We went last night out to the town for the final shebang: Imagine the smells of a state fair or music festival (with less drugs and alchol): cigarettes, greasy food being cooked in the streets, sweets, chicken, hotdogs...you name it. The place was jam packed, the kind of crowded where when you walk so feel you are simply being carried by the crowd. People of all ages were there, including families wheeling around babies.
Now imagine: drums, trumpets, tubas blasting all around, on every corner a different traditional dance being performed by people in the most amazing colorful costumes, often with huge light-up, colorful dragon masks. The dancers are of all ages and there are tons of them! Every dance (so every street corner) has its own Virgin Carmen: a light up plastic statute that is carried around on a cart by pious pilgrims.
When I was in high school I went to a festival in a small town in Mexico that honors their patron saint and this was similar in a lot of ways. Yet it was of its own northern chile variety in all its improvisation, costumes, and crowd. It was amazing and worth the trip. The night ended with a two hour outdoor mass in which people lit candles and offered their blessings to the Virgin. Just when I thought the mass had hit the end on a somber note, with the crowd and priest begging for salvation, the drums began sounding while firworks, hot pink flares and dancers seemed to emerge from nowhere. A gorgous firework display ensued (mind you at this point it was about midnight) and the dancing picked right back up again. Whew! The tour bus got us back to our hostel at 4:00am...a night to remember.
Today we ventured into the desert to see the beautiful landscape and check out a ghost mining town called Humberstone. It was gorgeous, the rolling form of the desert is amazing and when the sun started to set on the bus ride home the whole countryside turned pink. Also, today was the first time in a very long time that i felt truly strong sunshine. Tomorrow we head off to Arica, the most northern city of Chile known for warm beaches and mummies? Wednesday first thing in the morning we leave for La Paz Bolivia. Should be an adventure. Keep you posted! besos.
Anyway, we came here first to see the Atacama desert, the driest desert in the world and one of Chile´s most amazing treasures. We also came to see the Festival of La Tirana. La Tirana is a tiny town about 1.5 hours outside of Iquique by bus. The town is tiny and quite poor. 800 inhabitants live in box shaped one-homes that line this towns dusty streets. However, every year over 80,000 tourists and religious pilgrims flock for the incredible festival of La Tirana. The festival celebrates the town´s virgin patron saint Carmen with a week long display of dancing, praying and partying.
We went last night out to the town for the final shebang: Imagine the smells of a state fair or music festival (with less drugs and alchol): cigarettes, greasy food being cooked in the streets, sweets, chicken, hotdogs...you name it. The place was jam packed, the kind of crowded where when you walk so feel you are simply being carried by the crowd. People of all ages were there, including families wheeling around babies.
Now imagine: drums, trumpets, tubas blasting all around, on every corner a different traditional dance being performed by people in the most amazing colorful costumes, often with huge light-up, colorful dragon masks. The dancers are of all ages and there are tons of them! Every dance (so every street corner) has its own Virgin Carmen: a light up plastic statute that is carried around on a cart by pious pilgrims.
When I was in high school I went to a festival in a small town in Mexico that honors their patron saint and this was similar in a lot of ways. Yet it was of its own northern chile variety in all its improvisation, costumes, and crowd. It was amazing and worth the trip. The night ended with a two hour outdoor mass in which people lit candles and offered their blessings to the Virgin. Just when I thought the mass had hit the end on a somber note, with the crowd and priest begging for salvation, the drums began sounding while firworks, hot pink flares and dancers seemed to emerge from nowhere. A gorgous firework display ensued (mind you at this point it was about midnight) and the dancing picked right back up again. Whew! The tour bus got us back to our hostel at 4:00am...a night to remember.
Today we ventured into the desert to see the beautiful landscape and check out a ghost mining town called Humberstone. It was gorgeous, the rolling form of the desert is amazing and when the sun started to set on the bus ride home the whole countryside turned pink. Also, today was the first time in a very long time that i felt truly strong sunshine. Tomorrow we head off to Arica, the most northern city of Chile known for warm beaches and mummies? Wednesday first thing in the morning we leave for La Paz Bolivia. Should be an adventure. Keep you posted! besos.
bakán!
Right now I am sitting in an internet cafe in one of the most northern cities of Chile: Iquique. The next post I will delve into my travels but first I owe readers a wrap of my parents visit.
I probably don´t have to say this, but we had a fabulous fabulous time together in Chile. It was often tiring translating and of course traveling is always a lot of work, but really it went so much better than i could have ever dreamed.The rest of the time in Chiloe was very relaxing and beautiful. The island life seems tranquil yet harsh, given the icey cold winter weather. We saw a number of small towns, all with their cute central plaza marked with a historic wooden church. Most of the towns sit slightly raised on hills above the water so the streets run down to the ocean where you can see a host of colorful boats and smell the fishyness. The small towns seemed to have their town dogs that loitered on the same corners every day, like the old fishermen of the town. Everynight, we went and ate delicious seafood on the water and then stayed in a cozy hospedaje (a hotel that is basically run out of a person´s house) that may or may not have hot water. It was fun.
Back in Viña and Valpo I made sure mom and dad truly got to experience the culture in my house. They met everyone who lives in my lively household and got a good sense of my daily life there. Sitting at the table with the family and friends of the house during almuerzo all that week, I continued to feel in awe that my parents were among the faces at the table.
We also did some of the classic sightseeing of Valpo: the open air museum, the piers and sea lions, the port, plaza sotomayor and the armada building and much more. One of the best days was when I took them to visit the elemenentary school i´d been working at!
Most importantly, I was so glad that this trip inspired my parents to want to travel more.I hope everyone checks out the pictures...
I probably don´t have to say this, but we had a fabulous fabulous time together in Chile. It was often tiring translating and of course traveling is always a lot of work, but really it went so much better than i could have ever dreamed.The rest of the time in Chiloe was very relaxing and beautiful. The island life seems tranquil yet harsh, given the icey cold winter weather. We saw a number of small towns, all with their cute central plaza marked with a historic wooden church. Most of the towns sit slightly raised on hills above the water so the streets run down to the ocean where you can see a host of colorful boats and smell the fishyness. The small towns seemed to have their town dogs that loitered on the same corners every day, like the old fishermen of the town. Everynight, we went and ate delicious seafood on the water and then stayed in a cozy hospedaje (a hotel that is basically run out of a person´s house) that may or may not have hot water. It was fun.
Back in Viña and Valpo I made sure mom and dad truly got to experience the culture in my house. They met everyone who lives in my lively household and got a good sense of my daily life there. Sitting at the table with the family and friends of the house during almuerzo all that week, I continued to feel in awe that my parents were among the faces at the table.
We also did some of the classic sightseeing of Valpo: the open air museum, the piers and sea lions, the port, plaza sotomayor and the armada building and much more. One of the best days was when I took them to visit the elemenentary school i´d been working at!
Most importantly, I was so glad that this trip inspired my parents to want to travel more.I hope everyone checks out the pictures...
Thursday, July 5, 2007
the Saperstones are in Chile!
Pictures to view:
Santiago
Family and Friends
Chiloe & Puerto Varas
Valparaiso-Vina del Mar
I´m writing this entry mostly to assure all friends and family that my parents indeed arrived safely to South America and are having a fabulous time! I was soooo excited and also somewhat anxious about their visit. Their arrival corresponded with the end of my school year (and therefore entire college career) which brings to an end a chapter of my time here in chile. I am no longer living here as a student, but will be traveling my final few weeks here.
Anyway, monday morning I woke up at the crack of dawn to go to Santiago with my host dad Sergio and Leah. While we arrived at 8:30 the anticipation was only extended due to the delay of their flight by several hours. It was a glorious reunion, I was so happy to see them in the end. Sergio could not have been a better host for them that day. He took us around Santiago and gave my family a wonderful history and geography lesson. I have to say it was an entirely new experience to act as a translator, both my parents and Sergio were so excited and full of things to say I could barely keep up with everyone. However, in the end I was amazed at how well everyone got along and were able to communicate. My parents have been practicing and vastly improved their Spanish since I last saw them (meaning they can actually speak spanish at all) and Sergio was very patient and was able to understand bits and pieces of their english.
That evening we came back to Viña to meet the family and that also went wonderfully. I feel like I have realized an amazing dream by bringing these two families together. I knew from day one they were destined to have a strong bond and I am so thankful that it happened.
Yesterday we arrived on the island of Chiloé. We haven´t seen much yet but what we have seen is beautiful. While we arrived to cold and rain (the expected weather) we were greeted with sun and rainbows today. The only downfall has been some minor mechanical difficulties. The window of our rental car appears to be permanantly stuck rolled down...hmmmm. Today´s agenda includes auto repair. Its cool though, we´ll get it solved :). Gotta run, daylight is in short supply on this island. Happy fourth of july!
Santiago
Family and Friends
Chiloe & Puerto Varas
Valparaiso-Vina del Mar
I´m writing this entry mostly to assure all friends and family that my parents indeed arrived safely to South America and are having a fabulous time! I was soooo excited and also somewhat anxious about their visit. Their arrival corresponded with the end of my school year (and therefore entire college career) which brings to an end a chapter of my time here in chile. I am no longer living here as a student, but will be traveling my final few weeks here.
Anyway, monday morning I woke up at the crack of dawn to go to Santiago with my host dad Sergio and Leah. While we arrived at 8:30 the anticipation was only extended due to the delay of their flight by several hours. It was a glorious reunion, I was so happy to see them in the end. Sergio could not have been a better host for them that day. He took us around Santiago and gave my family a wonderful history and geography lesson. I have to say it was an entirely new experience to act as a translator, both my parents and Sergio were so excited and full of things to say I could barely keep up with everyone. However, in the end I was amazed at how well everyone got along and were able to communicate. My parents have been practicing and vastly improved their Spanish since I last saw them (meaning they can actually speak spanish at all) and Sergio was very patient and was able to understand bits and pieces of their english.
That evening we came back to Viña to meet the family and that also went wonderfully. I feel like I have realized an amazing dream by bringing these two families together. I knew from day one they were destined to have a strong bond and I am so thankful that it happened.
Yesterday we arrived on the island of Chiloé. We haven´t seen much yet but what we have seen is beautiful. While we arrived to cold and rain (the expected weather) we were greeted with sun and rainbows today. The only downfall has been some minor mechanical difficulties. The window of our rental car appears to be permanantly stuck rolled down...hmmmm. Today´s agenda includes auto repair. Its cool though, we´ll get it solved :). Gotta run, daylight is in short supply on this island. Happy fourth of july!
Monday, June 25, 2007
lobos marinos y más
I´m begining to experience a bit of the-end-is-near anxiety. I am so excited to see friends and family but will be devasted to leave Chile. Last Thursday (i think) the sun came out for the first time in a few days and I took advantage of the weather to do my favorite hour long walk between the University and my house in Recreo (Viña). The first thirty minutes or so I walk along boardwalk-like strip along the beach, it has a beautiful view of the city when it is clear and you can also stop and enjoy the sillyness of the lobos marinos: big fat sea lions or i guess literally translated as sea-wolves. On Thursday I spent some time sitting and admiring the view of the city and definitely teared up a bit at the thought of leaving.
Of course I have many exciting things to look forward too in the near future. One test until I am officially done with school and from then on out, this is pure vacation. Parents arrive on Monday which will be wonderful. We are going to spend their first few days in Viña and Valpo before we head off to the south for a few days. We are going to Chiloe, a big supposedly mysteriously unique island in the south of Chile parallel to the big city Puerto Montt. After that we will return here for a few days and after they leave I will do some more traveling in the north of Chile and to Bolivia.
In these last few weeks I am desperately scheming ways in which I can make it back to Latin America as soon as possible. I will have to return either to teach english or work for an NGO. I´ve decided there also has to be all kinds of opporunties to obtain for grants write, take pictures, make documentaries. I will make it happen I´m sure. Besitos and I hope to post more photos later this week (when I actually have some more time to take them!) This will be a crazy few weeks but I intend to take advanage of Chile until the very end.
Of course I have many exciting things to look forward too in the near future. One test until I am officially done with school and from then on out, this is pure vacation. Parents arrive on Monday which will be wonderful. We are going to spend their first few days in Viña and Valpo before we head off to the south for a few days. We are going to Chiloe, a big supposedly mysteriously unique island in the south of Chile parallel to the big city Puerto Montt. After that we will return here for a few days and after they leave I will do some more traveling in the north of Chile and to Bolivia.
In these last few weeks I am desperately scheming ways in which I can make it back to Latin America as soon as possible. I will have to return either to teach english or work for an NGO. I´ve decided there also has to be all kinds of opporunties to obtain for grants write, take pictures, make documentaries. I will make it happen I´m sure. Besitos and I hope to post more photos later this week (when I actually have some more time to take them!) This will be a crazy few weeks but I intend to take advanage of Chile until the very end.
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
rainy days in valpo
One week from tomorrow and I am officially a college graduate. A few months later than my classmates, but I made it (almost). Between now and then I will turn in a 10 page paper (almost done and by far the longest and most complicated paper I have ever written in Spanish), give two presentations, and take a difficult meteorolgy midterm. Right now it is freezing and rainy. I'm sitting in the cafeteria of one of the classroom buildings on campus, bundled up in my coat, hat, gloves and scarves becuase from every angle I can feel the drafty air coming in from the outside. It has not rained here often but when it rains, it RAINS. The streets flood and become small rivers. Children stay home from school and if you dare stand too close to the street curb you WILL get soaking wet.
Yesterday we said goodbye to the kids at the elementary school becuase the class for which we do our volunteer work is ending this week. I personally will at least go visit them before I leave, but regardless it was sad. I feel strange passing in for 8, 9 weeks, creating these bonds and then peaceing out back to the United States so quickly. A few kids wrote me goodbye letters, begging me not to forget them, one asked if I would be her mother. I love these kids, their teachers and I love the elementary school. It will be really hard to say goodbye for good in a few weeks
I'm getting anxious about leaving, full of mixed feelings. I am so excited to see my family and friends again but naturally devasated to be leaving this place. I finish school next week. Parents are here for the following two weeks. After that I will travel for two weeks and then back to the states. I feel between now and when my parents come is my last real time living this life that has become familiar over the past six monts. I started out unsure of Chile, but have grown to love it. More than loving Chile though I have grown to love Valparaíso and the history, culture, politics of Latin America in general that has always been in my heart. I don't think it will be possible to stay away from here for long, I know that I will live more of my life in Latin America, someday, somehow.
Yesterday we said goodbye to the kids at the elementary school becuase the class for which we do our volunteer work is ending this week. I personally will at least go visit them before I leave, but regardless it was sad. I feel strange passing in for 8, 9 weeks, creating these bonds and then peaceing out back to the United States so quickly. A few kids wrote me goodbye letters, begging me not to forget them, one asked if I would be her mother. I love these kids, their teachers and I love the elementary school. It will be really hard to say goodbye for good in a few weeks
I'm getting anxious about leaving, full of mixed feelings. I am so excited to see my family and friends again but naturally devasated to be leaving this place. I finish school next week. Parents are here for the following two weeks. After that I will travel for two weeks and then back to the states. I feel between now and when my parents come is my last real time living this life that has become familiar over the past six monts. I started out unsure of Chile, but have grown to love it. More than loving Chile though I have grown to love Valparaíso and the history, culture, politics of Latin America in general that has always been in my heart. I don't think it will be possible to stay away from here for long, I know that I will live more of my life in Latin America, someday, somehow.
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
remembering to be grateful
At 1pm today I was on the verge of tears because I am frustrated with school. I am failing my meteorology class and generally am feeling "done" with school here. Yet, this afternoon I had a well-needed experience that reminded me, things could be worse. Struggling in meteorolgy in Chile with a mean profesor is NOT the end of the world.
This afternoon I went over to the house of Inés, a 58 year old elementary teacher who works at the school at which I have been volunteering. Inés is trying to learn English to better converse with her step-children who live in the states. She asked me to come over to both practice English and to advise her on ways of teaching basic english phrases to her second graders. In the end, Inés seemed to be looking for friendship, someone to listen to her. Inés's life is the following: five years ago her husband had a stroke (he was 70 at the time) and paralyzed him on half his body. He is immobil, incontinent and requires much superivison. On top of that, he has severe alzheimer's or dimentia and does not ever recognize his own wife anymore. He spontaneous swears and acuses her of beating him. During the day, Inés goes to teach and a woman comes to the house to care for him, but evenings and late into the night, it is all her. there is no good care for the elderly here, not if you aren't filthy rich. Beyond that, this woman's parents are still alive, they live in the neighborhood. One has cancer and the other has parkinson's. Inés cares for them as well. She has one son, a 21 year old, who apparently takes no responsibility in helping his family.
In her broken English Inés tells me that her life is very bad, but it is the school children that keep her going. She loves to teach. The children are the future, but the future of Chile concerns this middle-aged, self-proclaimed traditional Chilean. She tells me she feels things are moving too fast for her to handle, that the Chilean identity is threatend by the invasion of American pop culture and economic pressures are turning ciities like Santiago into dangerous and poverty-filled places like she belived only existed in the poorest of countries. She speaks of the cultural threats of globalization as far stronger than any physical threat, "a pacifist invasion" of pop music, mini skirts, and gangs. She is outraged that the new trend is youtube videos of kids beating eachother up.
I learned a lot from this woman, and I also was reminded to be greatful for what I have. I can't always be proud to be an American...but I can personally be thankful for my health, my family, and for people who love me.
This afternoon I went over to the house of Inés, a 58 year old elementary teacher who works at the school at which I have been volunteering. Inés is trying to learn English to better converse with her step-children who live in the states. She asked me to come over to both practice English and to advise her on ways of teaching basic english phrases to her second graders. In the end, Inés seemed to be looking for friendship, someone to listen to her. Inés's life is the following: five years ago her husband had a stroke (he was 70 at the time) and paralyzed him on half his body. He is immobil, incontinent and requires much superivison. On top of that, he has severe alzheimer's or dimentia and does not ever recognize his own wife anymore. He spontaneous swears and acuses her of beating him. During the day, Inés goes to teach and a woman comes to the house to care for him, but evenings and late into the night, it is all her. there is no good care for the elderly here, not if you aren't filthy rich. Beyond that, this woman's parents are still alive, they live in the neighborhood. One has cancer and the other has parkinson's. Inés cares for them as well. She has one son, a 21 year old, who apparently takes no responsibility in helping his family.
In her broken English Inés tells me that her life is very bad, but it is the school children that keep her going. She loves to teach. The children are the future, but the future of Chile concerns this middle-aged, self-proclaimed traditional Chilean. She tells me she feels things are moving too fast for her to handle, that the Chilean identity is threatend by the invasion of American pop culture and economic pressures are turning ciities like Santiago into dangerous and poverty-filled places like she belived only existed in the poorest of countries. She speaks of the cultural threats of globalization as far stronger than any physical threat, "a pacifist invasion" of pop music, mini skirts, and gangs. She is outraged that the new trend is youtube videos of kids beating eachother up.
I learned a lot from this woman, and I also was reminded to be greatful for what I have. I can't always be proud to be an American...but I can personally be thankful for my health, my family, and for people who love me.
Saturday, June 2, 2007
Some interesting facts
Here are some random interesting facts about Chile (stuff worth reading more about if you have interest...)
1.) Divorce was just legalized here in 2004 and today Chile remains one of two countries in Latin America (the other being El Salvador) in which abortion is illegal even when the mother's life is in danger.
2.) Chile's economy is based on copper, wood, and a little bit of hydroelectric power. However, it does not have a stable energy supply. Ten years ago Chile began purchasing all of its natural gas from Agrentina, but after the peso crisis in Argentina the demand for gas has surpassed supply. Today Chile finds itself in a big crisis: Aregentina continues to cut its supply to Chile. They predict that by next year Chile will have to impose restrictions on gas which means cold showers and problems cooking.
3.) Trans-Santiago Sucks: In February Santiago completely overhauled its public transportation system and it is a raging disaster. The change was made in order to consolidate the numerous private bus companies under one government subsidized program, but the choas only got worse. Today there are ridiculously long lines, crowded buses and the metro now has to deal with twice as many passengers daily. The central government spends millions and millions but people are complaining the money has not been spent wisely. I read that Chile spends 6x on transportation on Santiago as they spend on the rest of the country as a whole. (To be fair, 1/3 of Chile's population lives in Santiago).
4.) Bolivia and Peru still have horrible relations with Chile stemming from the War of the Pacific in 1870. During this war Chile acquired its northern region, which means Chile took Bolivia's only access to the coast. More than a centurty later, Bolivia still demands its territory back.
5.) Pinochet created a constiution in the 1980 granting far more power to the executive branch. Though it has been amended since, the constitution still remains, further signaling that the skeleton of the dictatorship is still present today.
1.) Divorce was just legalized here in 2004 and today Chile remains one of two countries in Latin America (the other being El Salvador) in which abortion is illegal even when the mother's life is in danger.
2.) Chile's economy is based on copper, wood, and a little bit of hydroelectric power. However, it does not have a stable energy supply. Ten years ago Chile began purchasing all of its natural gas from Agrentina, but after the peso crisis in Argentina the demand for gas has surpassed supply. Today Chile finds itself in a big crisis: Aregentina continues to cut its supply to Chile. They predict that by next year Chile will have to impose restrictions on gas which means cold showers and problems cooking.
3.) Trans-Santiago Sucks: In February Santiago completely overhauled its public transportation system and it is a raging disaster. The change was made in order to consolidate the numerous private bus companies under one government subsidized program, but the choas only got worse. Today there are ridiculously long lines, crowded buses and the metro now has to deal with twice as many passengers daily. The central government spends millions and millions but people are complaining the money has not been spent wisely. I read that Chile spends 6x on transportation on Santiago as they spend on the rest of the country as a whole. (To be fair, 1/3 of Chile's population lives in Santiago).
4.) Bolivia and Peru still have horrible relations with Chile stemming from the War of the Pacific in 1870. During this war Chile acquired its northern region, which means Chile took Bolivia's only access to the coast. More than a centurty later, Bolivia still demands its territory back.
5.) Pinochet created a constiution in the 1980 granting far more power to the executive branch. Though it has been amended since, the constitution still remains, further signaling that the skeleton of the dictatorship is still present today.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
blar
After months of playing I find myself 100% inundated in school work. It is really a bummer. Nevertheless, I have a few exciting tales.
The protests: Last Monday was the 21 de Mayo, a national holiday in Chile commemerating the sinking of the battleship the Esmerelda during the War of the Pacific. Aside from glorifying military heroes of the past with fancy parades it is also a day for protests against the government. whoo hoo. Every year the president makes his or HER way to Valparaíso to make a speech akin to the state of the union, adressing promises for the upcoming year. Her visit is traditionally welcomed by masses of people waving communist party flags, union signs and other protest paraphanalia. I went along with some friends to check out the festitivites. Indeed, the protests were exciting, but seemed to lack any sense of direction. It seemed that most of the protesters were looking for a fight. They were ready for the tear gas and guanacos (water canons). However, I love seeing democracy in action and I respect the fact that Chileans are out making a scene.
Isla Negra
Last weekend we went to Isla Negra, the most of famous and picturesque of Pablo Neruda´s three homes. It is on the coast,a bit south of Valpo, and is a magnificant house in the shape of a boat. I don´t have much to say other than this was one sight that was worth it.
Running out Gas
Last night I went downstairs to turn on the gas to take a hot shower when my mother told me to enjoy the hot showers while they last. Aparently, Aregentina, Chile´s main source of natural gas, has halted the sale of gas to Chile. ahhh.
Okay, I am actually in a hurry...I´ll write more later!
The protests: Last Monday was the 21 de Mayo, a national holiday in Chile commemerating the sinking of the battleship the Esmerelda during the War of the Pacific. Aside from glorifying military heroes of the past with fancy parades it is also a day for protests against the government. whoo hoo. Every year the president makes his or HER way to Valparaíso to make a speech akin to the state of the union, adressing promises for the upcoming year. Her visit is traditionally welcomed by masses of people waving communist party flags, union signs and other protest paraphanalia. I went along with some friends to check out the festitivites. Indeed, the protests were exciting, but seemed to lack any sense of direction. It seemed that most of the protesters were looking for a fight. They were ready for the tear gas and guanacos (water canons). However, I love seeing democracy in action and I respect the fact that Chileans are out making a scene.
Isla Negra
Last weekend we went to Isla Negra, the most of famous and picturesque of Pablo Neruda´s three homes. It is on the coast,a bit south of Valpo, and is a magnificant house in the shape of a boat. I don´t have much to say other than this was one sight that was worth it.
Running out Gas
Last night I went downstairs to turn on the gas to take a hot shower when my mother told me to enjoy the hot showers while they last. Aparently, Aregentina, Chile´s main source of natural gas, has halted the sale of gas to Chile. ahhh.
Okay, I am actually in a hurry...I´ll write more later!
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
brrr
It´s getting cold in Valpo...really really cold. During the day, the sun pokes through the clouds and it has the nice semi-overcast not too cold feel of the northwest. But at night...brrrr. I´ve been hearing "the rain is coming" for awhile now, but so far, no rain.
Two weeks ago, we went on our seocnd CIEE trip, this time we went about 5 hours north to La Serena. La Serena is pretty much the last real city before miles and miles of desert. It is the oldest city in Chile (after Santiago) and was build simply as a stopping point between Santiago and the north because it was the last place with potable water. The area is beautiful, but much dryer in the south of course. The city is a bit inland but we stayed in cabins right on the bay. While there we visited the childhood home of Chile´s most famous female poet, Nobel Winner Gabriela Mistral and also explored the nearby port city of Coquimbo. Yet, the highlight of the trip was SUPPOSED to be a visit to one of the world´s most famous observatories, Tololo. However, for the first time in years, it was cloudly that weekend and therefore we couldn´t go up. boo. I personally have no picts of La Serena and surrounding areas, but i will steal some from friend´s soon. However, we did throw a rockus costume party (the theme was "Chile") in the cabins and above is a picture of me dressed up as a traditional Chilean Huasa or Cueca dancer!
I think my travels are official over until I finish school. School is definitely speeding up and I am needing to save my money for my travels later. I still have plenty more to explore here anyway...more trips to the nearby sandunes, more wanderings through the hills, and a few more museums that I haven´t yet explored.
Indeed, I am still continuing my quest to learn as much as I can about Chile and per my personal interest, I am especially trying to understand the intersections of class, race, gender and of course politics. The other day we had a workshop on public health in Chile which was pretty interesting. I learned that there do exist a decent amount of social services for the poor, more than I had realized. What is complicated and perhaps resembles what happens in the U.S. too is the lower middle class often gets squeezed out of social benefits while still unable to afford others? I´m not sure, I am going to soon go visit some of these public health clinis which should be interesting.
Another issue regarding education in general that I´d like to address. I´m recognizing more and more how lucky I have been. While schools in Chile CAN be good, there is a key element lacking in education from kindergarden all the way to the university level...a high value placed on analyical thinking and group disussion. I find that most of my classes are structured around the professor talking and the students memorzing. While this can be helpful, it of course does not foster individual thought. I find that when I do group work with Chilean classmates, they often have little experience in discussion, of bringing an opinion to supplement the text. Of for example, a group project involves copying and pasting material from the internet, not researching facts and presenting them in a creative fashion. I know I am not speaking for all Chileans or all systems of education here, but this has been my strange and often frustrating experience so far.
Final note, I stil miss everyone to death. It was soooo hard to miss LC´s graduation! I´m loving Chile but will love to see my friends and family again too!
Wednesday, May 9, 2007
My camera is officially dead. Big bummer, soon soon soon i will a.) fix it b.) steal pics from friends c.) get another camera so that i can continue to show you all my life here.
Last entry I began the rant about social inequity in Chile. I believe I left off explaining the failure of the goverment to support social services. Poverty in Chile is not as glaringly depressing as say in Bolivia or Peru, but the cost of living here is higher too. When I try to sort out for example the education system, I get stuck. On one hand it is so obvious that the old system of decentralization and state-subsidized private schools had failed to adequately provide opportunities for everyone. On the other had, the amount that is needed to bring public schools even close to the quality of private schools is immense! Chile lacks an entire few generations of well trained teachers and the schools have had decades to slowly crumble. I recently began my volunteer work in a public school and it was hard to see the reality of it all. The schools lack so many resources, including teachers. Most classes have up to 45 kids in one class!
Another issue on my mind. I was surprised to learn this weekend that many of the other gringos in my program do not like chile at all. Their complaints conisist mainly of how mondern chile is and how they feel it lacks culture. Now, at first I too felt overwhelmed by the amount of modernity, commsumerism here, but in NO WAY does that signify a lack of cultural identity. These particular students perhaps are not reaching out to chileans, making friends, exploring chile. I don´t know what it is. But their sentiments really surprised me.
Last entry I began the rant about social inequity in Chile. I believe I left off explaining the failure of the goverment to support social services. Poverty in Chile is not as glaringly depressing as say in Bolivia or Peru, but the cost of living here is higher too. When I try to sort out for example the education system, I get stuck. On one hand it is so obvious that the old system of decentralization and state-subsidized private schools had failed to adequately provide opportunities for everyone. On the other had, the amount that is needed to bring public schools even close to the quality of private schools is immense! Chile lacks an entire few generations of well trained teachers and the schools have had decades to slowly crumble. I recently began my volunteer work in a public school and it was hard to see the reality of it all. The schools lack so many resources, including teachers. Most classes have up to 45 kids in one class!
Another issue on my mind. I was surprised to learn this weekend that many of the other gringos in my program do not like chile at all. Their complaints conisist mainly of how mondern chile is and how they feel it lacks culture. Now, at first I too felt overwhelmed by the amount of modernity, commsumerism here, but in NO WAY does that signify a lack of cultural identity. These particular students perhaps are not reaching out to chileans, making friends, exploring chile. I don´t know what it is. But their sentiments really surprised me.
Tuesday, May 1, 2007
a divided country
I apologize for the delay between blogs, I am going to try to write a bit more frequently. Lately have certainly fallen into a better routine, I feel quite at home here. Today, instead of writing about past events, I want to share some thoughts, observations that have been consuming me in the past few weeks regarding social issues here in Chile.
This mental process began the day I arrived. My very first exposure to Chile occured in an extremely wealthy neighborhood of Santiago called Providencia. Walking down the streets of Santiago these first few days gave me the sensation that I could be in any major city in the United States, I was surrounded by consumerism, high rise apartment buildings and men wearing business suits talking on their cell phones. Of course, simply driving down the highway outside the city one easilty spots evidence of poverty, of disequality that is so characteristic of Latin America. Also, a few days after arriving in Viña, Paloma took me on a drive up into the hills of Valpo and Viña to again put things in perspective. I only have to walk 4 blocks up the hill from my house to find houses pieced together with scraps of metal, wood and cardboard.
Yet, Chile has become a bit of a puzzle for me. I understand how economic liberalism of the past few decades has both aided in economic growth, new technology etc.. in Latin America while simultaneously fosted a huge gap between the rich and the poor. Chile, like all countries, has it's own story, and the story of Chile's recent history is considered both tragic or miraculous depending on who you talk you. Pinochet killed thousands and thousands of people. He used torture, he broke up families, and inflicted major pshycological trauma on the country. At the same time, his incredibly strong policies of economic liberalism brought development to Chile today unrivaled by any other country in Latin America. Chile has by far the strongest economy in Latin America. There is all the technology, medical resourses, and all luxury of the modern world. And instead of only a tiny percentage of the population having access, there is a decent sized middle class.
Today, a scary 40% of the population still pledges allegiance to Pinochet. The allegiance seems to fall more or less along class lines, but not entirely (my liberal rich Chilean family is a perfect example.) But yeah, there are people who really believe that Pinochet's methods were the cost Chile had to pay to develop and restore order after the presidency of Allende (I will give my thoughts on this story in another blog). I personally will never be able to accept that murder of youth, just like me, is justified to bring economic development to a country. At the same time, I am aware that I am personally benefiting every day from this development. I have internet in my house, I attend a good university, I live in a beautiful big house and a comfortable, relatively safe neighborhood.
Then there is the other side of issues that is so glaringly obvious to me, Chile might have a middle class, but I see little class mobility. I think Chile is as divided as other Latin American countries, there just happens to be a bigger middle class in Chile than in say Peru. Pinochet privitized EVERYTHING and the country still runs pretty much like that. The government does not invest in education, health care, transportation. If you have the money you can get the best health care, the best education, but if not....well bummer.
Okay, so that no one gets to bored, I will pick up on this thought in another entry! Oh yeah and the camera is not working properly...not sure why, I will work on that to get you all more pics!
This mental process began the day I arrived. My very first exposure to Chile occured in an extremely wealthy neighborhood of Santiago called Providencia. Walking down the streets of Santiago these first few days gave me the sensation that I could be in any major city in the United States, I was surrounded by consumerism, high rise apartment buildings and men wearing business suits talking on their cell phones. Of course, simply driving down the highway outside the city one easilty spots evidence of poverty, of disequality that is so characteristic of Latin America. Also, a few days after arriving in Viña, Paloma took me on a drive up into the hills of Valpo and Viña to again put things in perspective. I only have to walk 4 blocks up the hill from my house to find houses pieced together with scraps of metal, wood and cardboard.
Yet, Chile has become a bit of a puzzle for me. I understand how economic liberalism of the past few decades has both aided in economic growth, new technology etc.. in Latin America while simultaneously fosted a huge gap between the rich and the poor. Chile, like all countries, has it's own story, and the story of Chile's recent history is considered both tragic or miraculous depending on who you talk you. Pinochet killed thousands and thousands of people. He used torture, he broke up families, and inflicted major pshycological trauma on the country. At the same time, his incredibly strong policies of economic liberalism brought development to Chile today unrivaled by any other country in Latin America. Chile has by far the strongest economy in Latin America. There is all the technology, medical resourses, and all luxury of the modern world. And instead of only a tiny percentage of the population having access, there is a decent sized middle class.
Today, a scary 40% of the population still pledges allegiance to Pinochet. The allegiance seems to fall more or less along class lines, but not entirely (my liberal rich Chilean family is a perfect example.) But yeah, there are people who really believe that Pinochet's methods were the cost Chile had to pay to develop and restore order after the presidency of Allende (I will give my thoughts on this story in another blog). I personally will never be able to accept that murder of youth, just like me, is justified to bring economic development to a country. At the same time, I am aware that I am personally benefiting every day from this development. I have internet in my house, I attend a good university, I live in a beautiful big house and a comfortable, relatively safe neighborhood.
Then there is the other side of issues that is so glaringly obvious to me, Chile might have a middle class, but I see little class mobility. I think Chile is as divided as other Latin American countries, there just happens to be a bigger middle class in Chile than in say Peru. Pinochet privitized EVERYTHING and the country still runs pretty much like that. The government does not invest in education, health care, transportation. If you have the money you can get the best health care, the best education, but if not....well bummer.
Okay, so that no one gets to bored, I will pick up on this thought in another entry! Oh yeah and the camera is not working properly...not sure why, I will work on that to get you all more pics!
Monday, April 23, 2007
Earthquake update
The earthquake that woke me up at 6:00 on Sunday morning was actually a 5.3! That same day there was a bigger earthquake in southern Chile that created a tsunami and killed a few people! Yikes!
Sunday, April 22, 2007
school got harder...but I did go to Argentina
The first thing I should let everyone know is that my computer power cord is fried. Therefore, I haven´t had quite the internet access as before, but more importantly, have not been able to upload pics yet :(. However, new power cord is in the mail (hopefully) and I have pictures of the yacht trip and Mendoza to upload.
Lately, I have fallen into a more normal routine with school, which has been a nice, but somewhat difficult change. I had quizes, readings, and even a presentation this week (that was really scary). Besides having consistent work for the foreign student classes that I did before, I now have constant work in my meteorology class and a class which started recently called Globalization, Development, and Regions...a two credit geography class that I have been anticipating. However, because that class JUST started, we have lots of make-up classes and well, lots of work. This week I will start my volunteer (well volunteer for credit because it is part of a class) work in a elementary school. I´m excited about that too. The only class that has yet to get hard, not surprisingly, is History of the 20th century through film...we just watch movies in class. that´s it.
Last weekend, I took a lovely short trip to Mendoza, Argentina. It is an 8 hour bus ride over the Andes, which in itself was worth the trip--very beautiful. Mendoza is a very pretty, serene city, with lots of parks, plazas, tree-lined streets etc...While I certainly noticed many differenes between Chile and Argentina, aside from the obvious differences in spanish accents, I feel somewhat disqualified to elaborate since I was only in that country for three days. What I did realize though, is how much a rivarly exists between the two countries. Argentina is a huge country, but chile is quite powerful for its mere 16,000,000 inhabitants (there are about 36 million in Argentina and almost half live in or near Buenos Aires).
Anyway, I really enjoyed Mendoza simply because it was a very relaxing, peaceful weekend. Argentina is much cheaper compared to Chile, so we were able to eat, shop, and have fun without spending too much. Most of the time was spent wandering the city (by the way it has about 1 million people, to put it in perspective), going to the large park San Martín, and basically relaxing. Saturday we did a fun winery tour...on bike. That is kind of the thing to do in Mendoza tours of "bikes and wines." It was so lovely because you really are just biking down these tranquil, tree-lined roads in the country going from winery to winery. Soooo nice.
Other than that, my only other recent news I suppose is that I got the flu this weekend...sucky. But, I am getting better. I miss everyone and am kind of sad to be missing the end of the year, graduation festivities happening at LC right now. I will write more soon.
OH YEAH, a 4.0 earthquake woke me up at 5:00 this morning. Scary and exciting!
Lately, I have fallen into a more normal routine with school, which has been a nice, but somewhat difficult change. I had quizes, readings, and even a presentation this week (that was really scary). Besides having consistent work for the foreign student classes that I did before, I now have constant work in my meteorology class and a class which started recently called Globalization, Development, and Regions...a two credit geography class that I have been anticipating. However, because that class JUST started, we have lots of make-up classes and well, lots of work. This week I will start my volunteer (well volunteer for credit because it is part of a class) work in a elementary school. I´m excited about that too. The only class that has yet to get hard, not surprisingly, is History of the 20th century through film...we just watch movies in class. that´s it.
Last weekend, I took a lovely short trip to Mendoza, Argentina. It is an 8 hour bus ride over the Andes, which in itself was worth the trip--very beautiful. Mendoza is a very pretty, serene city, with lots of parks, plazas, tree-lined streets etc...While I certainly noticed many differenes between Chile and Argentina, aside from the obvious differences in spanish accents, I feel somewhat disqualified to elaborate since I was only in that country for three days. What I did realize though, is how much a rivarly exists between the two countries. Argentina is a huge country, but chile is quite powerful for its mere 16,000,000 inhabitants (there are about 36 million in Argentina and almost half live in or near Buenos Aires).
Anyway, I really enjoyed Mendoza simply because it was a very relaxing, peaceful weekend. Argentina is much cheaper compared to Chile, so we were able to eat, shop, and have fun without spending too much. Most of the time was spent wandering the city (by the way it has about 1 million people, to put it in perspective), going to the large park San Martín, and basically relaxing. Saturday we did a fun winery tour...on bike. That is kind of the thing to do in Mendoza tours of "bikes and wines." It was so lovely because you really are just biking down these tranquil, tree-lined roads in the country going from winery to winery. Soooo nice.
Other than that, my only other recent news I suppose is that I got the flu this weekend...sucky. But, I am getting better. I miss everyone and am kind of sad to be missing the end of the year, graduation festivities happening at LC right now. I will write more soon.
OH YEAH, a 4.0 earthquake woke me up at 5:00 this morning. Scary and exciting!
Monday, April 9, 2007
Easter in Chile...surprisingly uneventful
Despite having a videotape of myself as a child begging my parents to celebrate Easter "just a wittle bit..." and despite the fact that I am living in a conservative Catholic country, Easter passed here about as uneventful as usual. My family is not Catholic, hence, we didn't celebrate Easter. However, I had a wonderful three day weekend and the weather was gorgeous. Saturday was in particularly spectacular. I spent that day sailing on my friend's yacht (i know i know, sounds hella swanky), but of course it was awesome. My friend Andee's dad invited us on their family's yacht to "view Viña and Valpo from the sea." We had perfect weather, brought snacks and champagne...all and all a wonderful day.
Friday, Paloma finally finished her movie that has been keeping her incredibly busy for the past month. For those of you who don't know, Paloma is a film producer and has actually been working on a very large film here. She recently told me that this movie, called "El brindis (the toast)" is the most expensive film ever produced in Chile. Paloma worked as one of three producers, the other two being in charge of scenes shot in Mexio, and her being in charge of production in Valpo. The theme of the movie is interesting: it is about a young woman who travels from Mexico to Valparaíso to find her estranged father. She becomes involved with rabbi and hence there is an overtone of judiaism in the story. Ironic i think. Anyway, while I don't know a lot about Chilean film, the director and main actors are apparantly well-known in this country and the script writer wrote the very famous movie "Machuca." The film won't be realeased until September, but it will be very to cool to see what my sister has been working so hard on.
In other news, another boy moved into the house yesterday bringing the grand total to 7. He moved into a spare bedroom i didn't even know existed in this large house! Although the weather was lovely this weekend, today makes me think fall is coming. Today had a portland-ish feel, cloudy, not hot, not cold, slight drizzle that doesn't really make the ground wet...
Oh yeah! Emma, David, Dana, Andee and I bought bus tickets to Mendoza, Aregentina for the weekend. It will be a quick trip (well an 8 hour bus ride, and then three days there) but should it should be lovely. I just have to cross my fingers for nice weather in the Andes so that they don't close the road back to Chile!
Finally, i have to say that while I'm having a blast, but I am always missing everyone at home (home in portland, home in colorado...everyone). I love when you comment on the blog and I love getting emails from people. Thanks for the love! EVERYONE COME VISIT ME IN CHILE! Besos.
Friday, Paloma finally finished her movie that has been keeping her incredibly busy for the past month. For those of you who don't know, Paloma is a film producer and has actually been working on a very large film here. She recently told me that this movie, called "El brindis (the toast)" is the most expensive film ever produced in Chile. Paloma worked as one of three producers, the other two being in charge of scenes shot in Mexio, and her being in charge of production in Valpo. The theme of the movie is interesting: it is about a young woman who travels from Mexico to Valparaíso to find her estranged father. She becomes involved with rabbi and hence there is an overtone of judiaism in the story. Ironic i think. Anyway, while I don't know a lot about Chilean film, the director and main actors are apparantly well-known in this country and the script writer wrote the very famous movie "Machuca." The film won't be realeased until September, but it will be very to cool to see what my sister has been working so hard on.
In other news, another boy moved into the house yesterday bringing the grand total to 7. He moved into a spare bedroom i didn't even know existed in this large house! Although the weather was lovely this weekend, today makes me think fall is coming. Today had a portland-ish feel, cloudy, not hot, not cold, slight drizzle that doesn't really make the ground wet...
Oh yeah! Emma, David, Dana, Andee and I bought bus tickets to Mendoza, Aregentina for the weekend. It will be a quick trip (well an 8 hour bus ride, and then three days there) but should it should be lovely. I just have to cross my fingers for nice weather in the Andes so that they don't close the road back to Chile!
Finally, i have to say that while I'm having a blast, but I am always missing everyone at home (home in portland, home in colorado...everyone). I love when you comment on the blog and I love getting emails from people. Thanks for the love! EVERYONE COME VISIT ME IN CHILE! Besos.
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
Patagonia II
I might as well finish telling my Patagonia adventures while the memories are fresh...
So I believe I left the last blog talking about glacier grey, which reminds me something super cool: every couple hours in the park near the glaciers you can hear a huge rumble, akin the thunder, it is the glacier moving. I loved it.
Next, rainbows, I have never seen so many feel rainbows, they occur in Patagonia as if that was a normal, everyday sight! At one point, I felt I was in a dream: sun was lighting up a glacier, a rainbow arked the sky with one end landing on the glacier and the other on a mountain top. Behind me a waterfall...amazing. Totally, totally surreal.
Anyway, the rest of the hike continued to varied in difficulty and scenry, but always gorgeous and vale la pena (worth it). Nights three and four we stayed at Camp Italio, pretty high up the mountain in Valle Frances (French Valley). The campsite was right along a gushing river of glacier run-off, very very cold water. We spent day 4 doing a short day hike up to a lookout. We were pretty beat that day and used it to recuperate a bit.
On Thursday we hiked very long hard day up to the Torres. Everyone had told us the best way to see the Torres is to do a sunrise hike to the base. While I can´t complain about the beautiful weather throughout the rest of the trip, it was somewhat disappointing that it ended up raining the very last day. We decided to brave the rain (mixed with hail and snow) and do the sunrise hike anyway, even though there wouldn´t be much of a view. I though it was still worth it to climb an hour straight uphill on huge slippery boulders just to see the little lake at the base of torres and see the faint faint hint of pink from the rising sun. At this point we were soaked, freezing, and verging on miserable, a perfect day to be the last one in the park. We packed out an made it down to the bottom in 2 hours although it was supposed to take closer to 3!
All in all, I was beat, in a lot of pain, but super super happy. I love to hike, I loved the challenge, and we had a wonderful time. Asdie from the quarelling and broken tent, we did alright. I feel very lucky to have seen that part of the world.
Regarding pictures: I only have pics up until the viewpòint during the day hike (i´ll put those up tonight), but eventually i will post some of the other´s pics to log the rest of our trip.
So I believe I left the last blog talking about glacier grey, which reminds me something super cool: every couple hours in the park near the glaciers you can hear a huge rumble, akin the thunder, it is the glacier moving. I loved it.
Next, rainbows, I have never seen so many feel rainbows, they occur in Patagonia as if that was a normal, everyday sight! At one point, I felt I was in a dream: sun was lighting up a glacier, a rainbow arked the sky with one end landing on the glacier and the other on a mountain top. Behind me a waterfall...amazing. Totally, totally surreal.
Anyway, the rest of the hike continued to varied in difficulty and scenry, but always gorgeous and vale la pena (worth it). Nights three and four we stayed at Camp Italio, pretty high up the mountain in Valle Frances (French Valley). The campsite was right along a gushing river of glacier run-off, very very cold water. We spent day 4 doing a short day hike up to a lookout. We were pretty beat that day and used it to recuperate a bit.
On Thursday we hiked very long hard day up to the Torres. Everyone had told us the best way to see the Torres is to do a sunrise hike to the base. While I can´t complain about the beautiful weather throughout the rest of the trip, it was somewhat disappointing that it ended up raining the very last day. We decided to brave the rain (mixed with hail and snow) and do the sunrise hike anyway, even though there wouldn´t be much of a view. I though it was still worth it to climb an hour straight uphill on huge slippery boulders just to see the little lake at the base of torres and see the faint faint hint of pink from the rising sun. At this point we were soaked, freezing, and verging on miserable, a perfect day to be the last one in the park. We packed out an made it down to the bottom in 2 hours although it was supposed to take closer to 3!
All in all, I was beat, in a lot of pain, but super super happy. I love to hike, I loved the challenge, and we had a wonderful time. Asdie from the quarelling and broken tent, we did alright. I feel very lucky to have seen that part of the world.
Regarding pictures: I only have pics up until the viewpòint during the day hike (i´ll put those up tonight), but eventually i will post some of the other´s pics to log the rest of our trip.
Monday, April 2, 2007
Patagonia Part I
Last Friday night at 3:00 am my flight landed in the southernmost city in South America: Punta Arenas. In the dark, Emma and I joked that we were probably landing on top of an iceberg or squashing a penguin colony...hmm, maybe that was funnier when we were delieriously tired. Anyway, after sleeping in the airport for the next few hours, the sun finally rose and I could see that we were not actually surrounded by snow, but still in a in the middle of a rather dry, barren tundra. Our destination was Torres del Paine National Park; one week earlier my friends and I decided on a whim that we must make it to Patagonia. Torres del Paine however, is nowhere near Valparaíso. We had to fly three hours to Punta Areans and then take a bus 6 hours north to the Park. It was totally, totally worth it.
First of all, I should say that when we arrived we had no idea how long we'd be backpacking. There are both free and paid campsites in teh park, but there are also refugios (kind of like hostels, but still pretty expensive). There is a common route through the park called the "W" which you can do in anywhere betwee 3 and 6 days depending on how much hiking you really want to do. In the end, to avoid paying for refugios, we decided to hike and camp the entire 6 days. Indeed, 7 people turned out to be a bit too large of a group to travel with, but we made it work.
The first day of hiking was sort of the optional day, or extended trip hike. We chose to hike 6 hours to the base camp at Lake Pehoe rather than spending $20 to get there by boat. This was perhaps my favorite day of hiking for several reasons. First of all, the weather was gorgeous. It was very windy, but still really sunny. Also, the trail wasn't too difficult, which is nice given how heavy our packs were. Also, less people take this trail, I think we only passed one other couple the entire day. That night however, things got a little rough. We were stupid enough to bring a borrowed tent before checking to see if everything was okay with it. We got to the site at Lake Pehoe kind of late because the bus didn't get us to the trailhead until noonish. Turns out the tent was broken. One of the strings inside the tent poles had snapped. We had to perform major pole surgery in the dark, freezing, wind. Everyone was grumpy--we fought a lot that night. In the end we did manage to pitch our ridiculously huge 6-person mansion (which slept 7 comfortably even with all the backpacks inside) and we awoke in the morning to another beautiful day.
Day 2 was a hike up to Glacier Grey. I have never seen a glacier before (where would I?) and it was amazing. I especially couled believe the way the light lit it up as the sun rose. That night we had to fix the tent again, in fact we had to fix it every night of the entire trip. Every time we took the tent down it broke again. However, we finally figured out a method of repair and we never stressed as much as we did the first night. There is so much more to tell...rainbows, the torrres, but I'll save it for the next post. I don't want to make these too long and overwhelming. Check out the pics of these first two days!
First of all, I should say that when we arrived we had no idea how long we'd be backpacking. There are both free and paid campsites in teh park, but there are also refugios (kind of like hostels, but still pretty expensive). There is a common route through the park called the "W" which you can do in anywhere betwee 3 and 6 days depending on how much hiking you really want to do. In the end, to avoid paying for refugios, we decided to hike and camp the entire 6 days. Indeed, 7 people turned out to be a bit too large of a group to travel with, but we made it work.
The first day of hiking was sort of the optional day, or extended trip hike. We chose to hike 6 hours to the base camp at Lake Pehoe rather than spending $20 to get there by boat. This was perhaps my favorite day of hiking for several reasons. First of all, the weather was gorgeous. It was very windy, but still really sunny. Also, the trail wasn't too difficult, which is nice given how heavy our packs were. Also, less people take this trail, I think we only passed one other couple the entire day. That night however, things got a little rough. We were stupid enough to bring a borrowed tent before checking to see if everything was okay with it. We got to the site at Lake Pehoe kind of late because the bus didn't get us to the trailhead until noonish. Turns out the tent was broken. One of the strings inside the tent poles had snapped. We had to perform major pole surgery in the dark, freezing, wind. Everyone was grumpy--we fought a lot that night. In the end we did manage to pitch our ridiculously huge 6-person mansion (which slept 7 comfortably even with all the backpacks inside) and we awoke in the morning to another beautiful day.
Day 2 was a hike up to Glacier Grey. I have never seen a glacier before (where would I?) and it was amazing. I especially couled believe the way the light lit it up as the sun rose. That night we had to fix the tent again, in fact we had to fix it every night of the entire trip. Every time we took the tent down it broke again. However, we finally figured out a method of repair and we never stressed as much as we did the first night. There is so much more to tell...rainbows, the torrres, but I'll save it for the next post. I don't want to make these too long and overwhelming. Check out the pics of these first two days!
Monday, March 19, 2007
A few more updates
While I procrastinate my non-existent school work that I have at the moment, I thought I'd post another update on my life in Chile as of late...
School: Okay, so classes began a few weeks ago, but I can't say that I am too immersed in school yet. First of all, three of classes only meet once a week. Two of them started last week and the third hasn't yet met. I am however, quite excited for these classes. One is a course called History of the 20th Century through film, another is about economic development, and the third is a community service class. Staring next month, I will begin working with underprivleged youth in Valparaíso by planning cultural activities to do with them. The objective of the class is to better aquaint youth with the city in which they live. My other more serious classes are Globalization and Spanish grammar (foreign exchange student courses) and meteorology, which I haven't gotten to deep into yet, but it should be pretty cool.
Fun around Valpo: Thursday night I had my first experience with the infamous El Huevo discotecque. It is a ridiculous large dance club; 4 stories of dancing with different types of music on each floor. The top has a terrace that overlooks the ocean. El Huevo is a trip, but as Ali said, almost a study abroad experience in itself. Sunday afternoon, Dana, Emma and I explored the ex-carcel (ex-jail) in Valpo. As the name suggests this was a prison that was transformed into a cultural center. It is a freaking sweet place--there murals on the walls and there is space for music, art, sports, theatre--whatever you can imagine.
A full house: First of all, I realized I have yet to mention that we now have two more college students besides Paloma and I living in the house. Natalie and Marudo are family friends from Antufagasta (city in the north from where my family moved two years ago). Natalie a freshman, is studying engineering in Valpo and Marudo is a second year music student in Viña. I don't know Natalie yet very well, but Marudo is very sweet. It's fun to have a house full of young people. This weekend I also had the wonderful opportunity to meet more members of this family. My father Sergio has a son from his first marriage, Felipe who now lives in Santiago. This weekend he came with his wife Paula and children Amanda (4) and Vicente (2). Paula and Felipe are wonderful people and I now have friends in Santiago with whom I can stay any time. The kids are adorable but incredibly wild--especially Amanda, who touches (and often breaks) everything she sees.
I posted more photos of all this excitment...enjoy. I'm not sure I'll write again/post pics until I get back from Patagonia! Wish me luck, I have no idea what I'm getting myself into! ahhhh :) besos, abrazos, ciao!
School: Okay, so classes began a few weeks ago, but I can't say that I am too immersed in school yet. First of all, three of classes only meet once a week. Two of them started last week and the third hasn't yet met. I am however, quite excited for these classes. One is a course called History of the 20th Century through film, another is about economic development, and the third is a community service class. Staring next month, I will begin working with underprivleged youth in Valparaíso by planning cultural activities to do with them. The objective of the class is to better aquaint youth with the city in which they live. My other more serious classes are Globalization and Spanish grammar (foreign exchange student courses) and meteorology, which I haven't gotten to deep into yet, but it should be pretty cool.
Fun around Valpo: Thursday night I had my first experience with the infamous El Huevo discotecque. It is a ridiculous large dance club; 4 stories of dancing with different types of music on each floor. The top has a terrace that overlooks the ocean. El Huevo is a trip, but as Ali said, almost a study abroad experience in itself. Sunday afternoon, Dana, Emma and I explored the ex-carcel (ex-jail) in Valpo. As the name suggests this was a prison that was transformed into a cultural center. It is a freaking sweet place--there murals on the walls and there is space for music, art, sports, theatre--whatever you can imagine.
A full house: First of all, I realized I have yet to mention that we now have two more college students besides Paloma and I living in the house. Natalie and Marudo are family friends from Antufagasta (city in the north from where my family moved two years ago). Natalie a freshman, is studying engineering in Valpo and Marudo is a second year music student in Viña. I don't know Natalie yet very well, but Marudo is very sweet. It's fun to have a house full of young people. This weekend I also had the wonderful opportunity to meet more members of this family. My father Sergio has a son from his first marriage, Felipe who now lives in Santiago. This weekend he came with his wife Paula and children Amanda (4) and Vicente (2). Paula and Felipe are wonderful people and I now have friends in Santiago with whom I can stay any time. The kids are adorable but incredibly wild--especially Amanda, who touches (and often breaks) everything she sees.
I posted more photos of all this excitment...enjoy. I'm not sure I'll write again/post pics until I get back from Patagonia! Wish me luck, I have no idea what I'm getting myself into! ahhhh :) besos, abrazos, ciao!
Sunday, March 18, 2007
one month down, five more to go
I left for Chile one month ago today...amazing. It has been a month filled with ups and downs, understandings and more misunderstandings, and lots and lots of new incredible discoveries. I am finally begining to feel comfortable with Spanish, I always heard that the first few weeks were the worst. This isn't to say I still don't have moments of utter confusion, but little by little I am adjusting.
Little by little I find myself more and more attuned to the intricacies of the culture in which I am immersed. I know my micro (bus) route, my local panandaría (bread store), and I can identify which incredibly steep hill takes me from the bus stop to my house. I know that Chile wouldn't be Chile wihtout consuming tons of pan (bread), palta (avocado), and instant coffee. Mullets and rat tails (often braided) are cool and so are high top converse, i mean the kind that go half-way up the calf. Dogs roam the streets and with such a dog poputlation naturally comes the constant stank of dog crap. Chilean's speak their own form of Spanish. Mexican slang that I learned for years does not apply, the Argentinian pronunciation of the double "l" I learned in school only gets me made fun of, and no matter how hard I practice, I doubt I will cease to be considered a slow speaker. Almost everyday I walk for miles, sometimes because its necessary and sometimes just because. I think the best way to get to know a new place is to explore it on foot. My absolute favorite activity is to walk the winding hills and random staircases of Valpo with a camera and explore the beautiful (and somewhat smelly) city of colors.
Yet, everyday I fall more and more in love with Chile. People are wonderful, culture is rich, and I see and learn things that I know will forever change my life!
I have many more stories regarding the past weeks, but I will post those in the next few days. However, I do have some exciting news. I bought a plane ticket to Patagonia. March 23-April 1 6 friends and I are heading down to the tip of the world. We plan to backpack for 4 or 5 days...very intense...but I am ready! Ciao!
Little by little I find myself more and more attuned to the intricacies of the culture in which I am immersed. I know my micro (bus) route, my local panandaría (bread store), and I can identify which incredibly steep hill takes me from the bus stop to my house. I know that Chile wouldn't be Chile wihtout consuming tons of pan (bread), palta (avocado), and instant coffee. Mullets and rat tails (often braided) are cool and so are high top converse, i mean the kind that go half-way up the calf. Dogs roam the streets and with such a dog poputlation naturally comes the constant stank of dog crap. Chilean's speak their own form of Spanish. Mexican slang that I learned for years does not apply, the Argentinian pronunciation of the double "l" I learned in school only gets me made fun of, and no matter how hard I practice, I doubt I will cease to be considered a slow speaker. Almost everyday I walk for miles, sometimes because its necessary and sometimes just because. I think the best way to get to know a new place is to explore it on foot. My absolute favorite activity is to walk the winding hills and random staircases of Valpo with a camera and explore the beautiful (and somewhat smelly) city of colors.
Yet, everyday I fall more and more in love with Chile. People are wonderful, culture is rich, and I see and learn things that I know will forever change my life!
I have many more stories regarding the past weeks, but I will post those in the next few days. However, I do have some exciting news. I bought a plane ticket to Patagonia. March 23-April 1 6 friends and I are heading down to the tip of the world. We plan to backpack for 4 or 5 days...very intense...but I am ready! Ciao!
Monday, March 12, 2007
Pucon: volcanos, mapuches, and northwest style climate
Whew. I just go back from an extremely exhausting but absolutely amazing weekend in Pucón. Pucón is a small city in the South (not deep south, but south) that is a hot spot for outdoorsy tourists from around the world. In the backdrop of the town looms the impressive Volcano Villarica and Lake Villarica. The whole area has quite a magical feel because vapor from the underground lava rivers can be seen rising from all directions in the hills. The water in the lake is quite warm and we had the opportunity to vistit nearby hotsprings on Sunday was well. In many respects this region reminded me greatly of the northwest United States. For example, everywhere there is lush, green vegitation (though different types of plants) and the climate is wet and misty. Oh yeah, and just like in Oregon, blackberrys are abundant in the fall! We also hiked to a few waterfalls that could easily be found in the Colombia Gorge.
While the highlight of my weekend was certainly summiting Villarica, I'll start with our actiivieis the first day. After a 12 hour bus ride over Thursday night, we arrived in Pucon and went directly to small villiage to meet some Mapuches. Mapuches are the the most populous group of native Chileans (I believe there are about 1 million) that live mostly in this lake region. We went to a cultural musuem, had a delicious meal, and then they took us out to the country to learn about ceremonies, dance, sing, play games etc...They were wonderful, they love to share their culture and their stories with us. I do regret not bringing my camera out to the festivities in the countryside, but maybe later I will steal some pics from others to show everyone.
Then, Saturday we got to choose between a number of activies and I chose the volcano ascent. Given my experience with hiking, I assumed the hike would be hard, but not so bad. I was wrong. It was by far the most physically challenging thing I have ever done. This was on ordinary hike. I'm talking about hiking with crampons and ice axes through snow for hours and hours. I can't even say I enjoyed the whole thing, but I did it. And as always, it felt amazing to have succeeded in something so hard. Coming down the mountain was quite a riot, we slid on our butts in the snow almost all the way to the bottom. One of my pics shows the snow tunnels we slid on. I feel this blog is getting quite long...but whew. What a weekend.
While the highlight of my weekend was certainly summiting Villarica, I'll start with our actiivieis the first day. After a 12 hour bus ride over Thursday night, we arrived in Pucon and went directly to small villiage to meet some Mapuches. Mapuches are the the most populous group of native Chileans (I believe there are about 1 million) that live mostly in this lake region. We went to a cultural musuem, had a delicious meal, and then they took us out to the country to learn about ceremonies, dance, sing, play games etc...They were wonderful, they love to share their culture and their stories with us. I do regret not bringing my camera out to the festivities in the countryside, but maybe later I will steal some pics from others to show everyone.
Then, Saturday we got to choose between a number of activies and I chose the volcano ascent. Given my experience with hiking, I assumed the hike would be hard, but not so bad. I was wrong. It was by far the most physically challenging thing I have ever done. This was on ordinary hike. I'm talking about hiking with crampons and ice axes through snow for hours and hours. I can't even say I enjoyed the whole thing, but I did it. And as always, it felt amazing to have succeeded in something so hard. Coming down the mountain was quite a riot, we slid on our butts in the snow almost all the way to the bottom. One of my pics shows the snow tunnels we slid on. I feel this blog is getting quite long...but whew. What a weekend.
Wednesday, March 7, 2007
"back to school" excitment in March?
Nothing exceptionally huge has happened since my last post, but I am having a great time and learning more and more each day. This weekend was pretty crazy, lots of dancing and late night adventures. Saturday night we celebrated Jon´s 21st birthday--quite fun. Sunday afternoon was cool because my dad took me exploring some more in Valpo--that is what the new pics are from. I rode my first ascensor (elevators that take you to the tops of the hills) and went to an open air museum on Cerro Bellavista. He also took me to several amazing "miradors" -- view points from which you can see the whole city and the ocean. Also sweet is the Paseo de los Sueños, a public art plaza made entirely of mosaics. Perhaps the most special however, was that he took me to neighborhood in which he grew up. His old house no longer exists, but he showed me the empty lot and the places he used to play as a kid.
Indeed, I did start classes this week as well. I am taking two classes specifically for exchange students, one is a class on globalization required by our program, and the other is a spanish gramar class. As always with the begining of the semester, some of my schedule is still up in the air, but so far, so good. This morning I attended meterology, which I think could be cool, but I did have a hard time understanding this professor´s accent. During the next week I will also start/try out classes on development, history through film, and a community service class. I will keep you all posted as I learn more about those courses and which ones I want to stick with. I am certainly still struggling with spanish but it does get better every day. My ability to communicate almost entirely depends on how tired I am and the subject matter. Honestly, the wierdest thing is how I have begun to mix Spanish and English. I often type spanish words when I write emails, or say spanish cognates when I speak in English. My host sister and I have a bad habit of speaking spanglish to one another!
One last note...last night, I had an extremely interesting and rather intense converstation with my mom here. She told me about her life during the dictatorship--this woman is amazing. While she told me many stories, the most incredible story of hers is that for years she risked her life sneaking people out of the country, disguising them, falsifying documents etc...At the time she was working as a journalist and was able to maintain a politically neutral public appearance, but behind the scenes did absolutely incredible things for people.
Indeed, I did start classes this week as well. I am taking two classes specifically for exchange students, one is a class on globalization required by our program, and the other is a spanish gramar class. As always with the begining of the semester, some of my schedule is still up in the air, but so far, so good. This morning I attended meterology, which I think could be cool, but I did have a hard time understanding this professor´s accent. During the next week I will also start/try out classes on development, history through film, and a community service class. I will keep you all posted as I learn more about those courses and which ones I want to stick with. I am certainly still struggling with spanish but it does get better every day. My ability to communicate almost entirely depends on how tired I am and the subject matter. Honestly, the wierdest thing is how I have begun to mix Spanish and English. I often type spanish words when I write emails, or say spanish cognates when I speak in English. My host sister and I have a bad habit of speaking spanglish to one another!
One last note...last night, I had an extremely interesting and rather intense converstation with my mom here. She told me about her life during the dictatorship--this woman is amazing. While she told me many stories, the most incredible story of hers is that for years she risked her life sneaking people out of the country, disguising them, falsifying documents etc...At the time she was working as a journalist and was able to maintain a politically neutral public appearance, but behind the scenes did absolutely incredible things for people.
Thursday, March 1, 2007
Music and Politics
As I become more and more comfortable here time is starting to move a bit more quickly. While the first days felt like an eternity, I am starting to understand just how fast this semester will actually go. To and extent, the last few days have remained somewhat frustrating. The registration, orientation proccess is a mess--extremely disorganized and we are always confused. That will be over soon though, I'm going to register for classes today. At the same time, I'm working on getting to know Viña and Valpo a bit better. I've walked most of Viña now, it is not nearly as cool as Valpo, but very beautiful nonetheless. Yesterday, I walked all the way to the campus in Valpo, which is about an hour walk. The street follows the ocean which is very beautiful, but not the most soothing walk as it also follows the main highway.
Last night however, I really think I fell in love with Valpo and with Chile. I went to a concert in the very beautiful Plaza Sotomayor. It was a free rock and folk concert in the heart of the city. I certainly loved the music...rock, folk, cuenca (traditional Chilean music), but more than that I loved the atmosphere. To an extent it reminded me of any american rock concert--young hippies, happy families, interesting characters. At the same time, there is a distinct political climate here that is so unique to Latin America. The crowd was full of flags sporting images of Victor Jara, Allende, and the communist party of Chile. For those who don't know, as I didn't until recently, Victor Jara is muscial icon here, a popular folk singer who was tortured and killed during the dictatorship. Oh yeah, and I should note the irony of this concert taking place in front of the elaberate building that serves as naval headquarters...very interesting.
I recognize that this was only one snippet and that there are many complacent youth here, but the concert made me feel that the young people of Chile have far more passion than we do. Perhaps it can be compared to the difference between my parents generation and my own. Mine talks big game, but often is too lazy to take action. Moreover, the crowd had such reverence for their home. Many of the songs spoke of Valparaíso and I loved watching how exciting everyone became.
Anyway, maybe this is a typical liberal, american reaction...but regardless, I know I am going to enjoy the next six months immensly.
By the way my host family went to the concert too. I just have to once again reiterate how lucky I am with this family. They are so incredibly caring, supportive, intelligent, creative...Just an example, the other night my host mom busted out an accordian, my sister played guitar and they taught me traditional folk songs. My dad and I have plans on Saturday to walk the Cerros (hills) of Valparaíso just so that I can take pictures of street art, buildings etc... I'll keep the updates coming!
Last night however, I really think I fell in love with Valpo and with Chile. I went to a concert in the very beautiful Plaza Sotomayor. It was a free rock and folk concert in the heart of the city. I certainly loved the music...rock, folk, cuenca (traditional Chilean music), but more than that I loved the atmosphere. To an extent it reminded me of any american rock concert--young hippies, happy families, interesting characters. At the same time, there is a distinct political climate here that is so unique to Latin America. The crowd was full of flags sporting images of Victor Jara, Allende, and the communist party of Chile. For those who don't know, as I didn't until recently, Victor Jara is muscial icon here, a popular folk singer who was tortured and killed during the dictatorship. Oh yeah, and I should note the irony of this concert taking place in front of the elaberate building that serves as naval headquarters...very interesting.
I recognize that this was only one snippet and that there are many complacent youth here, but the concert made me feel that the young people of Chile have far more passion than we do. Perhaps it can be compared to the difference between my parents generation and my own. Mine talks big game, but often is too lazy to take action. Moreover, the crowd had such reverence for their home. Many of the songs spoke of Valparaíso and I loved watching how exciting everyone became.
Anyway, maybe this is a typical liberal, american reaction...but regardless, I know I am going to enjoy the next six months immensly.
By the way my host family went to the concert too. I just have to once again reiterate how lucky I am with this family. They are so incredibly caring, supportive, intelligent, creative...Just an example, the other night my host mom busted out an accordian, my sister played guitar and they taught me traditional folk songs. My dad and I have plans on Saturday to walk the Cerros (hills) of Valparaíso just so that I can take pictures of street art, buildings etc... I'll keep the updates coming!
Saturday, February 24, 2007
so...I think I'm going to try to fiind a better way to put up pictures...but for now I think this works. The first few pictures in the album are of of first few days in Chile, in Santiago. The second half are of Viña del Mar, where I live. Viña borders Valparaíso; it is a bit smaller and more touristy, but nonetheless beautiful. I live in that huge blue house and the pictures of the water were taken on my roof. The woman is my host mother Susana and the adorable younger one is my sister Paloma. I need to take a picture of my father, he is wonderful too. Today I finally began to explore the streets of Valpo. It is the coolest little city; my favorite part is that there are beautful murals all over the place.
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
host family
It amazing how three days can feel like three weeks when things are so new and confusing! I continue to feel entirely overwhelmed at every moment by new experiences and my frustration with my understanding (or lack thereof) of Spanish. Today however, I felt a huge weight lifted when I met and moved in with my host family. I seemed to have been placed in an amazingly unique and wonderful, wonderful family. I live with a host mother and father, Susana and Sergio, and their 20-year old daughter Paloma. All three were so warm and welcoming...I feel very lucky. Incredibly, I have so much in common with this family. All three have expereince in film-making, in fact Sergio makes science films for children (just like my dad). They are excited by my interest in politics and history and are willing to make sure I learn all that I can. Paloma and I hit it off immediately as well--I can tell we will be great friends. I now have a built in travel buddy! Additionally, their house is beautiful and overlooks the ocean! Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to post some pictures of Santiago and of the house and the amazing vista. Oh yeah and if anyone wants to chat via skype, my account is just like my AIM address, lindsaynik!
Wednesday, January 31, 2007
Santiago
So I have never had a blog before, but I figured this would be a quick and easy way for everyone to stay updated on what I am up to. As with most global treks, the past (who knows...36 hours?) have been a ridiculously exhausting but exciting blur. Travel went smoothly but of course was extremely long and tireing. I arrived in Santiago, Chile at 9:45 local time, which, with daylight savings, puts me two hours ahead of east coast time. The CIEE program directors picked us up at the airport and took us to a relatively nice hotel with excellent food, hot showers, and wireless internet. Today we expored Santiago via tour bus, stopping at La Moneda (the main government offices), La Plaza de las Armas, y El Cerro de San Cristobal, which had an amazing view of the city. Tonight we dined elegantly atop a tall building in a revolving restaurant. It was such a treat. Tomorrow we are to see more of the city and then finally get some information about our host families before we connect with them in Valparaíso. Well, I am exhausted and extremely excited for a full night's sleep! ciao!
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