As I mentioned in the last posting this city is just so overwhelming and rich in sight and sounds. I recognize it is a little strange to be so enamored with such a massive, overcrowded, polluted place...but what can I say, it speaks to me.
Basically we have done so much in three days that I feel I have been here a month. Most of the time has spent walking around or hopping from place to place via metro. On the first full day we explored the centro, the center of the city and the area in which are hostel is located. According to my trusted tour book the Zocolo, the central plaza, is the second largest public plaza in the world after the Red Square in Moscow. The Zocolo is quite an impressive site with the national palace on one side and a huge Cathedral on the other. The main crazy fact about this area is that since Mexico City was built on top of a lake, the city is sinking and the church is somewhat crooked. The view of the Zocolo is really beautiful at night too, with the back lights of the city and faint glow of red and green lights, the colors of the Mexican flag, as a backdrop on the National Palace. Our hostel happens to overlook this incredible view. In fact, right now I am staring out at the ancient crooked Cathedral...
We have also explored a variety of chaotic markets, parks and plazas. There is artwork everywhere and a variety of ornate architecture. The Palacio Bella Artes and the National Post Office are two buildings that stand out in particular for their grandeur and highly intricate interiors. Yesterday we took the metro out to a famous but highly worthwhile tourist attraction of Xochimilco, a place where you can float down canals in brightly painted boats. The photos that I took should later give a better idea of the mystique of this place. Yet the boat tour itself wasn't even the best part of the day. It was the whole adventure of finding the place and exploring the surrounding neighborhood. Xochimilco is located about an hour away from the Centro by metro. We took two different metro lines, a light rail and still walked 15 minutes or more to get there. The neighborhood surrounding is fairly nice but was amazing how different it felt from the interior of the city. It reminded me more of a smaller Latin American town. I enjoyed exploring this neighborhood very much and also I had one of the best, cheapest meals thus far in a restaurant run out of somebody's home.
Today we did another classic but worthwhile tourist activity, the Pyramids of Teothuacan. These pyramids were built in over 2000 years ago and remain entirely a mystery. All literature and archaeological records we have is entirely speculative...so that is interesting. The Aztecs found the Pyramids and based much of their theology on what they believed Teothuacan to represent.
Now I have one side note that is entirely unrelated, but worth sharing. When I was in Chile and Bolivia, I wrote extensively about the political climate. In both of those countries political propaganda was everywhere and I did not have to look hard to run into protests. Since I've been here I saw one small protest, but what strikes me is how I have seen almost no political grafiti, signs, or symbols. There were a few more painted political messages written on the outskirts of the city but literally nothing in the center. This of course makes me wonder if their isn't a political and social movement climate or if it is more tightly controlled than in other countries...I am guessing it is the latter. I know for a fact that Mexico has had its fair share of social unrest. Just last year the country was in full uproar over the presidential election. People filled the Zocolo for weeks at a time to protest the announcement of Calderon's victory of Obredor. Yet today there is almost no evidence of this movement.
Of course, I don't claim to have seen all, and I am aware that there are places in southern mexico in particular that are flooded with social movements. I just wonder what about Mexico City and what I am personally witnessing that is so different that other places which have very similar political struggles.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Monday, June 2, 2008
Mexico City six years later
Hello everyone, while I'm not quite in the Southern hemisphere I figured this would be as good as a place as any to write about my travels in Mexico City!
Mexico City holds a very special place in my heart. It was here, six summers ago that I fell in love with Latin America. As a curious 17 year old I made a personal vow to never lose touch with Latin America and the Spanish language. So far, I have kept that promise.
Six years later, I see Mexico through slightly different eyes. Of course I am older and have accumulated more life experiences. In the grand scheme of things, the city is equally exciting. I'm a sucker for the colors, smells, faces and general chaos that makes up this Latin American metropolis. I am no less in awe of the architecture and still feel I don't truly comprehend the size of this place.
Yet, there are many things that look and feel really different than last time. For one, I feel surprisingly comfortable and safe. The obvious reason is that I have more experience traveling and living abroad. I also speak Spanish and have more confidence in my ability to speak to people and maneuver the city.
Also, I have really noticed this time just how incredibly friendly people here are. I'm sure it is in part because I can speak Spanish and therefore have had an easier time developing relationships. I speak to people in the street which I would never have dreamed of doing five years ago. However, I now have more places to compare. In my other travels I have always encountered nice people but this trip I am feeling something more intense from Mexicans. There is a true warmth that radiates from MOST people that I meet. Street vendors are not overly aggressive, people are always willing to help when you ask and in general they always want me to feel welcome.
Tomorrow or the next day I will blog a bit about some of the things we have seen in the past few days. I am having a blast traveling with my brother. He is the best travel partner I could ask for! Besos, hasta manana!
Mexico City holds a very special place in my heart. It was here, six summers ago that I fell in love with Latin America. As a curious 17 year old I made a personal vow to never lose touch with Latin America and the Spanish language. So far, I have kept that promise.
Six years later, I see Mexico through slightly different eyes. Of course I am older and have accumulated more life experiences. In the grand scheme of things, the city is equally exciting. I'm a sucker for the colors, smells, faces and general chaos that makes up this Latin American metropolis. I am no less in awe of the architecture and still feel I don't truly comprehend the size of this place.
Yet, there are many things that look and feel really different than last time. For one, I feel surprisingly comfortable and safe. The obvious reason is that I have more experience traveling and living abroad. I also speak Spanish and have more confidence in my ability to speak to people and maneuver the city.
Also, I have really noticed this time just how incredibly friendly people here are. I'm sure it is in part because I can speak Spanish and therefore have had an easier time developing relationships. I speak to people in the street which I would never have dreamed of doing five years ago. However, I now have more places to compare. In my other travels I have always encountered nice people but this trip I am feeling something more intense from Mexicans. There is a true warmth that radiates from MOST people that I meet. Street vendors are not overly aggressive, people are always willing to help when you ask and in general they always want me to feel welcome.
Tomorrow or the next day I will blog a bit about some of the things we have seen in the past few days. I am having a blast traveling with my brother. He is the best travel partner I could ask for! Besos, hasta manana!
Sunday, July 29, 2007
stuff
i have a lot more to write about bolivia and my travels but i am just too lazy to do it at the moment. I thought i'd let everyone know though that a.) i made it safely back to valpo b.) on my pictures page i added pics of the first half of my travles (i will probably me making a few more albums) and c.) if you haven't already scrolled down, until the post Saperstone's are in Chile there are links to four albums that my dad posted! I come home in 10 days!!!!!
Friday, July 20, 2007
¡La Sede No Se Mueve!
I don´t really know where to begin because this has been the most exciting day in my entire 6 months of travel and living overseas. I´m still in La Paz Bolivia, a city that is of course, NOTHING like Chile. The streets are far more chaotic, the people generally poorer and the culture much richer and indigenous. Globalization hasn´t hit Bolivia like it has in Chile, yet everywhere I see evidence of lack of adquete education, health...many people struggle.
La Paz is truly a breathtaking city that is framed by towering mountains covered with snow. The road down into the valley that is central La Paz is truly a breath-taking sight. The city unfolds across the mountains into the valley. I thought Valpo was a city of hills...then I saw La Paz. Paceñas (residents of La Paz) don´t live in the hills, they live on the slopes of enormous mountains. In fact, the elevation gain from the center of the city to Alto (the upper community of La Paz) is a good 500m.
Today, Dana, Lauren, Ali and I hiked that main road along with 2 million Bolivians in the countries´ largest political assembly in the cities´ history. The "cabildo" was essentially a rally held to protest the proposal of moving the nations government to Sucre (the official or constitutional capital of Bolivia). I´m having difficulties describing just how amazing the site was today. 2 million Bolivians marched and bused this 500meter incline in solidarity. Their fight is much deeper than government issues, it is about race, class and identity. Bolivia is 60% indigenous and this population tends to be centered in and around La Paz. Pacenes see the propsed as a grave economic and cultural threat. Sucre and the wealthy community of Santa Cruz tend to be a less indigenous population, these cities are wealthy and needless to say, the people of La Paz feel they don´t adequetly represent the pueblo of Bolivia.
Todays march was full of national pride, flags waved high, people painted their faces and chanted in unison. Yet what was really so incredible was watching men and women of all ages, many of whom were elderly embark in such a grueling climb with such passion. The indigenous women marched in full dress, long colorful skirs, sueters and draping, often beaded shawls. Many carried children in their arms or on their backs. Of course it was not only the traditionally dressed Bolivians who showed up today, but an amazingly spirited crowd. I was also extremely captivated by the colors of today. I loved seeing the woven brightly colored shawls, hats, blankets against the bright yellow, green, and red national flags.
Again, it is hard to explain, but I truly lost my breath when we arrived at the top and I could see the flags waving across the entire mountain while I looked out over the scenic vista of the valley that is La Paz. Perhaps the most incredible moment was when they played the national anthem. I swear the entire 2 million stopped dead in their tracks. Bolivia is noisy, chaotic and colorful, but for three minutes the city stood somber and silent in solidarity.
Bolivia is an exciting place to me because of the rich scenery and landscape, but what really captivates me (and has for a long time actually) is the political climate here. It is monumental that in 2006 Bolivians elected Evo Morales, the first indigenous president of the country, or you could say the first indigenous leader in 500 years. He of course was in solidarity with the rally today, as he too sees La Paz as the face of his country. As much as I would have loved to make the trek north to Peru and see Machu picchu and Cusco, I think this trip to Bolivia is what I needed to satisfy my personal passion for social change in Latin America. Bolivia is where its at!
Here is what I found in the English press...
http://www.cnn.com/2007/WORLD/americas/07/20/bolivia.capital.ap/
La Paz is truly a breathtaking city that is framed by towering mountains covered with snow. The road down into the valley that is central La Paz is truly a breath-taking sight. The city unfolds across the mountains into the valley. I thought Valpo was a city of hills...then I saw La Paz. Paceñas (residents of La Paz) don´t live in the hills, they live on the slopes of enormous mountains. In fact, the elevation gain from the center of the city to Alto (the upper community of La Paz) is a good 500m.
Today, Dana, Lauren, Ali and I hiked that main road along with 2 million Bolivians in the countries´ largest political assembly in the cities´ history. The "cabildo" was essentially a rally held to protest the proposal of moving the nations government to Sucre (the official or constitutional capital of Bolivia). I´m having difficulties describing just how amazing the site was today. 2 million Bolivians marched and bused this 500meter incline in solidarity. Their fight is much deeper than government issues, it is about race, class and identity. Bolivia is 60% indigenous and this population tends to be centered in and around La Paz. Pacenes see the propsed as a grave economic and cultural threat. Sucre and the wealthy community of Santa Cruz tend to be a less indigenous population, these cities are wealthy and needless to say, the people of La Paz feel they don´t adequetly represent the pueblo of Bolivia.
Todays march was full of national pride, flags waved high, people painted their faces and chanted in unison. Yet what was really so incredible was watching men and women of all ages, many of whom were elderly embark in such a grueling climb with such passion. The indigenous women marched in full dress, long colorful skirs, sueters and draping, often beaded shawls. Many carried children in their arms or on their backs. Of course it was not only the traditionally dressed Bolivians who showed up today, but an amazingly spirited crowd. I was also extremely captivated by the colors of today. I loved seeing the woven brightly colored shawls, hats, blankets against the bright yellow, green, and red national flags.
Again, it is hard to explain, but I truly lost my breath when we arrived at the top and I could see the flags waving across the entire mountain while I looked out over the scenic vista of the valley that is La Paz. Perhaps the most incredible moment was when they played the national anthem. I swear the entire 2 million stopped dead in their tracks. Bolivia is noisy, chaotic and colorful, but for three minutes the city stood somber and silent in solidarity.
Bolivia is an exciting place to me because of the rich scenery and landscape, but what really captivates me (and has for a long time actually) is the political climate here. It is monumental that in 2006 Bolivians elected Evo Morales, the first indigenous president of the country, or you could say the first indigenous leader in 500 years. He of course was in solidarity with the rally today, as he too sees La Paz as the face of his country. As much as I would have loved to make the trek north to Peru and see Machu picchu and Cusco, I think this trip to Bolivia is what I needed to satisfy my personal passion for social change in Latin America. Bolivia is where its at!
Here is what I found in the English press...
http://www.cnn.com/2007/WORLD/americas/07/20/bolivia.capital.ap/
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
so so hight
Location: La Paz Bolivia
Altitude: 3600 meters or 11,800 feet
I may be a colorado girl, but I am dizzy. Regardless, today was incredible. We began at sea level in Arica and climbed climbed climbed. I sat next to an incredible nice man on the bus, a former tour guide who gave me detailed description of the landscape change between Arica and the Bolivian border.
We began the day in the dry, barren, lifeless Atacama desert. Nothing grows, lots of minerals but little else. Higher up you see some signs of live and farming. He told me that only two rivers flow at all through northern Chile, the one up near the Bolivian and Peruvian border is called the Lluta. It is kind of salty so the only thing they grow down there is corn.
Then comes the pre cordillera, like the foothills. This zone is marked by yellow and green low lying brush, still dead looking, but gorgeous when they line the canyons. Here you see your first of the four camel species, the gnanaco (also seen in Patagonia).
Higher up, we enter the infamous beauty of the Altiplano, marked by bright bright green rocks, they are covered in lichen, the only source of kindling to start a fire in this Up here is the town of Putre, they grow potatoes, corn, artichokes and animal feed. The altiplano is beautiful, the bus takes you through all the Parque Nacional Lauca, marked by clear lagunas, volcanos, flamingos (I learned there are 5 species globally and 3 live in this park), watering holes with tufts of green moss and algae, and our other three camels: Alpacas, Llamas, and Vicunas.
The border crossing rests at a whopping 4500 meters, or 14,800 ft. I collapased to my kness when I stepped off the bus, kind of scary. The kind man next to me did what any local would do, brought me rubbing alcohol to inhale and a hot cup of coca leaf tea. I felt much better to my surprise.
I'll keep you updated and the journey through bolivia. Right now I am taking it easy in the hostel and getting ready to dive into the madness of La Paz tomorrow.
Altitude: 3600 meters or 11,800 feet
I may be a colorado girl, but I am dizzy. Regardless, today was incredible. We began at sea level in Arica and climbed climbed climbed. I sat next to an incredible nice man on the bus, a former tour guide who gave me detailed description of the landscape change between Arica and the Bolivian border.
We began the day in the dry, barren, lifeless Atacama desert. Nothing grows, lots of minerals but little else. Higher up you see some signs of live and farming. He told me that only two rivers flow at all through northern Chile, the one up near the Bolivian and Peruvian border is called the Lluta. It is kind of salty so the only thing they grow down there is corn.
Then comes the pre cordillera, like the foothills. This zone is marked by yellow and green low lying brush, still dead looking, but gorgeous when they line the canyons. Here you see your first of the four camel species, the gnanaco (also seen in Patagonia).
Higher up, we enter the infamous beauty of the Altiplano, marked by bright bright green rocks, they are covered in lichen, the only source of kindling to start a fire in this Up here is the town of Putre, they grow potatoes, corn, artichokes and animal feed. The altiplano is beautiful, the bus takes you through all the Parque Nacional Lauca, marked by clear lagunas, volcanos, flamingos (I learned there are 5 species globally and 3 live in this park), watering holes with tufts of green moss and algae, and our other three camels: Alpacas, Llamas, and Vicunas.
The border crossing rests at a whopping 4500 meters, or 14,800 ft. I collapased to my kness when I stepped off the bus, kind of scary. The kind man next to me did what any local would do, brought me rubbing alcohol to inhale and a hot cup of coca leaf tea. I felt much better to my surprise.
I'll keep you updated and the journey through bolivia. Right now I am taking it easy in the hostel and getting ready to dive into the madness of La Paz tomorrow.
Monday, July 16, 2007
uncharted territory
As the bus rolls around the corner on Chiles main corrider, ruta 5, the coastal Iquique seemed to appear out of nowhere amongst the looming sand dunes that line Chile´s northern coast. It is really an impressive sight, the city is squeezed between a phenomenal coastline and towers of desert that are actually given the name Cerros Drágons (Dragon Hills). My friend Dana, her 18 year old sister and I arrived yesterday morning to begin what will be a two week travel for me across northern Chile and Bolivia. They will probably travel longer but I cut my time short in order to spend my last week in South America in Valpo and because I´m somewhat short on funds...
Anyway, we came here first to see the Atacama desert, the driest desert in the world and one of Chile´s most amazing treasures. We also came to see the Festival of La Tirana. La Tirana is a tiny town about 1.5 hours outside of Iquique by bus. The town is tiny and quite poor. 800 inhabitants live in box shaped one-homes that line this towns dusty streets. However, every year over 80,000 tourists and religious pilgrims flock for the incredible festival of La Tirana. The festival celebrates the town´s virgin patron saint Carmen with a week long display of dancing, praying and partying.
We went last night out to the town for the final shebang: Imagine the smells of a state fair or music festival (with less drugs and alchol): cigarettes, greasy food being cooked in the streets, sweets, chicken, hotdogs...you name it. The place was jam packed, the kind of crowded where when you walk so feel you are simply being carried by the crowd. People of all ages were there, including families wheeling around babies.
Now imagine: drums, trumpets, tubas blasting all around, on every corner a different traditional dance being performed by people in the most amazing colorful costumes, often with huge light-up, colorful dragon masks. The dancers are of all ages and there are tons of them! Every dance (so every street corner) has its own Virgin Carmen: a light up plastic statute that is carried around on a cart by pious pilgrims.
When I was in high school I went to a festival in a small town in Mexico that honors their patron saint and this was similar in a lot of ways. Yet it was of its own northern chile variety in all its improvisation, costumes, and crowd. It was amazing and worth the trip. The night ended with a two hour outdoor mass in which people lit candles and offered their blessings to the Virgin. Just when I thought the mass had hit the end on a somber note, with the crowd and priest begging for salvation, the drums began sounding while firworks, hot pink flares and dancers seemed to emerge from nowhere. A gorgous firework display ensued (mind you at this point it was about midnight) and the dancing picked right back up again. Whew! The tour bus got us back to our hostel at 4:00am...a night to remember.
Today we ventured into the desert to see the beautiful landscape and check out a ghost mining town called Humberstone. It was gorgeous, the rolling form of the desert is amazing and when the sun started to set on the bus ride home the whole countryside turned pink. Also, today was the first time in a very long time that i felt truly strong sunshine. Tomorrow we head off to Arica, the most northern city of Chile known for warm beaches and mummies? Wednesday first thing in the morning we leave for La Paz Bolivia. Should be an adventure. Keep you posted! besos.
Anyway, we came here first to see the Atacama desert, the driest desert in the world and one of Chile´s most amazing treasures. We also came to see the Festival of La Tirana. La Tirana is a tiny town about 1.5 hours outside of Iquique by bus. The town is tiny and quite poor. 800 inhabitants live in box shaped one-homes that line this towns dusty streets. However, every year over 80,000 tourists and religious pilgrims flock for the incredible festival of La Tirana. The festival celebrates the town´s virgin patron saint Carmen with a week long display of dancing, praying and partying.
We went last night out to the town for the final shebang: Imagine the smells of a state fair or music festival (with less drugs and alchol): cigarettes, greasy food being cooked in the streets, sweets, chicken, hotdogs...you name it. The place was jam packed, the kind of crowded where when you walk so feel you are simply being carried by the crowd. People of all ages were there, including families wheeling around babies.
Now imagine: drums, trumpets, tubas blasting all around, on every corner a different traditional dance being performed by people in the most amazing colorful costumes, often with huge light-up, colorful dragon masks. The dancers are of all ages and there are tons of them! Every dance (so every street corner) has its own Virgin Carmen: a light up plastic statute that is carried around on a cart by pious pilgrims.
When I was in high school I went to a festival in a small town in Mexico that honors their patron saint and this was similar in a lot of ways. Yet it was of its own northern chile variety in all its improvisation, costumes, and crowd. It was amazing and worth the trip. The night ended with a two hour outdoor mass in which people lit candles and offered their blessings to the Virgin. Just when I thought the mass had hit the end on a somber note, with the crowd and priest begging for salvation, the drums began sounding while firworks, hot pink flares and dancers seemed to emerge from nowhere. A gorgous firework display ensued (mind you at this point it was about midnight) and the dancing picked right back up again. Whew! The tour bus got us back to our hostel at 4:00am...a night to remember.
Today we ventured into the desert to see the beautiful landscape and check out a ghost mining town called Humberstone. It was gorgeous, the rolling form of the desert is amazing and when the sun started to set on the bus ride home the whole countryside turned pink. Also, today was the first time in a very long time that i felt truly strong sunshine. Tomorrow we head off to Arica, the most northern city of Chile known for warm beaches and mummies? Wednesday first thing in the morning we leave for La Paz Bolivia. Should be an adventure. Keep you posted! besos.
bakán!
Right now I am sitting in an internet cafe in one of the most northern cities of Chile: Iquique. The next post I will delve into my travels but first I owe readers a wrap of my parents visit.
I probably don´t have to say this, but we had a fabulous fabulous time together in Chile. It was often tiring translating and of course traveling is always a lot of work, but really it went so much better than i could have ever dreamed.The rest of the time in Chiloe was very relaxing and beautiful. The island life seems tranquil yet harsh, given the icey cold winter weather. We saw a number of small towns, all with their cute central plaza marked with a historic wooden church. Most of the towns sit slightly raised on hills above the water so the streets run down to the ocean where you can see a host of colorful boats and smell the fishyness. The small towns seemed to have their town dogs that loitered on the same corners every day, like the old fishermen of the town. Everynight, we went and ate delicious seafood on the water and then stayed in a cozy hospedaje (a hotel that is basically run out of a person´s house) that may or may not have hot water. It was fun.
Back in Viña and Valpo I made sure mom and dad truly got to experience the culture in my house. They met everyone who lives in my lively household and got a good sense of my daily life there. Sitting at the table with the family and friends of the house during almuerzo all that week, I continued to feel in awe that my parents were among the faces at the table.
We also did some of the classic sightseeing of Valpo: the open air museum, the piers and sea lions, the port, plaza sotomayor and the armada building and much more. One of the best days was when I took them to visit the elemenentary school i´d been working at!
Most importantly, I was so glad that this trip inspired my parents to want to travel more.I hope everyone checks out the pictures...
I probably don´t have to say this, but we had a fabulous fabulous time together in Chile. It was often tiring translating and of course traveling is always a lot of work, but really it went so much better than i could have ever dreamed.The rest of the time in Chiloe was very relaxing and beautiful. The island life seems tranquil yet harsh, given the icey cold winter weather. We saw a number of small towns, all with their cute central plaza marked with a historic wooden church. Most of the towns sit slightly raised on hills above the water so the streets run down to the ocean where you can see a host of colorful boats and smell the fishyness. The small towns seemed to have their town dogs that loitered on the same corners every day, like the old fishermen of the town. Everynight, we went and ate delicious seafood on the water and then stayed in a cozy hospedaje (a hotel that is basically run out of a person´s house) that may or may not have hot water. It was fun.
Back in Viña and Valpo I made sure mom and dad truly got to experience the culture in my house. They met everyone who lives in my lively household and got a good sense of my daily life there. Sitting at the table with the family and friends of the house during almuerzo all that week, I continued to feel in awe that my parents were among the faces at the table.
We also did some of the classic sightseeing of Valpo: the open air museum, the piers and sea lions, the port, plaza sotomayor and the armada building and much more. One of the best days was when I took them to visit the elemenentary school i´d been working at!
Most importantly, I was so glad that this trip inspired my parents to want to travel more.I hope everyone checks out the pictures...
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